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1200bandit
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The thing with air is, like most things it expands as it gets warmer. what you want for performance is more oxygen atoms in the cylinder not just volume of air, the more you do to keep the air cool, the more oxygen atoms will be in a certain volume of air.

Another thing to remember is we drive Mantas, if you're hose just goes through the hole where the snorkel goes, it's behind the grill, probably in fairly turbulent air which might reduce any available pressure & the crinkles & bends in your air supply tube will reduce flow. You also have a 360° filter which will draw air all the way round it, not just from your hose (sorry to be the bearer of bad news). Luckily the filter is at the front of the engine bay where the air isn't as hot.

& as we have CIH engines, anything that can be done to separate the exhaust from the inlet manifold will be a bonus, be that shields, coatings or wraps :thumbup.

Have look at these videos to get an idea of what to do & how to test at home.

 

 

Edited by Rick H
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the problem i always thoughtwith aftermarket air filters was that they muckup the already correct air/ fuel ratio unless you play with the airflow meter spring and obviously with the engine having no way of knowing this ( ie o2 sensors ) the engine could receive a weaker mixture than intended with the problems this can bring.

plus, with a lot of cars the original setup was designed well enough that aftermarket stuff gave no real benefit anyway other than a noise change ?

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That's what the airflow meter is doing, more air in, the meter measures it & adjusts fueling accordingly.

Whether it makes a power gain or not is down to, is the filter restricting the engine?

In the 1st video I posted, Mr Vizard shows how to test this using a manometer (milk jug, tubing, coloured water & a measuring stick).

While a freer flowing filter will only make more power typically at higher revs, once the revs are past the point where the original filter became a restriction, cool air gains power throughout the rev range.

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On 11/02/2024 at 17:30, 1200bandit said:

I think only covered about 250 miles last year,got to use it more 

And time for a play, you could try experimenting, best time if early morning or late evening, cooler oxygen. 

Cold air feed? 😉🤔

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Not so cold 🔥🥵

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Standard, The size of that intake, cold air feed from underneath 🫣❄️🥶

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Edited by ®evo03
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3 hours ago, 1200bandit said:

Backed the manta out the garage,give it a wash,let it dry in the wind back in the garage,cover on ,got to get back into the manta 

Nearly warmer 😉

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Looking for rear window hinges,the type that goes on 2 sides of the glass.

l have got the in the past but can’t remember where from 

Have tried all types of glue,cleaned the glass,hing not sticking to the glass 

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30 minutes ago, H-400 said:

google reprotec, but not cheap. Sometimes Edelschmiede has got them also.

 

I stuck my reprotec ones on with Araldite Clear. Make sure everything is really clean and mask the glass so glue doesn’t get everywhere. I suggest leaving them clamped in position before refitting the windows. While they are out renew the rubber hinges.

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17 minutes ago, 1200bandit said:

That’s the ones. I forgot the hinge rubbers were included. 
 

This is what I fixed mine with;

https://www.toolstation.com/araldite-crystal-tubes-epoxy-adhesive/p60351

 

 

 

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19 hours ago, Jonathan Pounsett said:

That’s the ones. I forgot the hinge rubbers were included. 
 

This is what I fixed mine with;

https://www.toolstation.com/araldite-crystal-tubes-epoxy-adhesive/p60351

 

 

 

Did try this glue,removed the windows,glued the hinges,left for 3 days ,refitted the windows popped of next day ,possibly the window seal is setting incorrectly?

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4 hours ago, 1200bandit said:

Did try this glue,removed the windows,glued the hinges,left for 3 days ,refitted the windows popped of next day ,possibly the window seal is setting incorrectly?

Only stuff I ever used that worked for an extended period was a IV cure glue that car glass co. gave me. 

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