1200bandit Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 Yes when l clamp the pipe the engine revs drop Have replaced the aux valve with one l have , which was cleaned How do you adjust the valve,the is a 6 mill nut on it have slacked the nut but can’t see how to adjust it . Still the same with a different valve. Have an Airflow meter kicking about will try that. Can the airflow meter be adjusted as it look like it can be adjusted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 (edited) On 23/01/2024 at 19:42, cam.in.head said: also clean and check the aux airvalve. if you squeeze the pipe shut from cold and start the engine it should start but revs will be low at first. if they still shoot up then not a aux air valve issue . the valve should only hold revs up around 1000 to 1200 ish from cold but its adjustable and could br adjusted wrong ? They are adjustable, I did post a guide somewhere, was on an Alpha iirc but same for all the LE-Jetronic equipment cars. See if I can find it. Found it, it’s step 4 some way down. Pics can take a while to load. https://hpsimotorsports.com/blogs/tech-articles/gregs-bosch-l-jetronic-fuel-injection-idle-adjustment-diagnostic-and-tune-up-page also, good little vid on YouTube that shows the valve with the hole visible to compare if you look through it, and possibly alternative part! Lastly, there is another alternative option that BMW used as a mod to the basic Bosch setup. As water is pumped to the butterfly assembly, this could be an option https://www.e30zone.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=278104 Edited January 24 by Jessopia74 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 just be very carefull adjusting the airflow meter. and if you must mark its original position first. the air valves are adjustable also yes. they are a bit tricky but are not actually open that far anyway when cold and obviously close off fully when warm. a bit of trial and error. on reading the excelkent article posted above it is very interesting reading BUT i do think the sentence saying that the air valve should be FULLY open when cold is wrong. that would give a very high idle im sure , on the 2.2 for example when my idle ecu went faulty and opened up the valve revs would shoot up to 3000. adding the restricting washer reduced that to around 1000 - 1200 max and that was a quite small hole. around 4mm. if your car runs at the correct idle speed when warmed up ( adjustable bypass as normal) then the aux valve needs to be open just enough to give the required cold start idle speed. maybee around 1000. you could clean the valve,refit it with the adjustment screw loose ,start the engine and move the rod / shaft to therequired position and tighten the nut again. remember its not a screw that moves in and out ,more a rod that moves the internal mechanism about ! sideways. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 2 hours ago, cam.in.head said: just be very carefull adjusting the airflow meter. and if you must mark its original position first. the air valves are adjustable also yes. they are a bit tricky but are not actually open that far anyway when cold and obviously close off fully when warm. a bit of trial and error. on reading the excelkent article posted above it is very interesting reading BUT i do think the sentence saying that the air valve should be FULLY open when cold is wrong. that would give a very high idle im sure , on the 2.2 for example when my idle ecu went faulty and opened up the valve revs would shoot up to 3000. adding the restricting washer reduced that to around 1000 - 1200 max and that was a quite small hole. around 4mm. if your car runs at the correct idle speed when warmed up ( adjustable bypass as normal) then the aux valve needs to be open just enough to give the required cold start idle speed. maybee around 1000. you could clean the valve,refit it with the adjustment screw loose ,start the engine and move the rod / shaft to therequired position and tighten the nut again. remember its not a screw that moves in and out ,more a rod that moves the internal mechanism about ! sideways. Yeah, when he states fully open, he’s referring to the hole size that’s visible in the pictures, not a 1/2” hole trough the valve. I don’t even think it’s large enough. IIRC it’s just a slit cut into the segment (not a full disk) anyway, so even if you mess it up it’s actual size is limited 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1200bandit Posted January 26 Author Share Posted January 26 (edited) The gap on mine is about the same size as the BMW one, The original Opel one showed has a very small gap mine is bigger,on the 2 valves l have. How does adjust,have slack of the small nut ( 6mm spanner) Will try to adjust it Edited January 26 by 1200bandit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 1 hour ago, 1200bandit said: The gap on mine is about the same size as the BMW one, The original Opel one showed has a very small gap mine is bigger,on the 2 valves l have. How does adjust,have slack of the small nut ( 6mm spanner) Will try to adjust it Follow his guide in the first link I posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 when the nut is undone the rod slides sideways . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1200bandit Posted February 2 Author Share Posted February 2 Adjusted the air value ( made the intake hole smaller,checked on the spare one for adjusting) The is very little adjustment but made a lot of difference, Thank you gents Made a adapter for the K&N air filter from air flow to the filter Done a bracket to fix it to the inner wing,was to low as rubbing on the inner wing, got some Renault 5 exhaust mounting fixing ( which are much taller) Now nice gap on inner wing. Got to make a air piping from the front panel to the filter Some people don’t like this set up ,but l can always go back to original Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 Seen the panel incased before, basically a cold air force feed box. But tidy work all the same and win on running issue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1200bandit Posted February 5 Author Share Posted February 5 (edited) Have fitted a K&N type air filter, Some people are not a fan of this set up as it will suck up hot air from the engine bay. The coolant that goes though the throttle body gets hot which in turn heats up the throttle body, Does this heat up the air going through or is going to fast to get warm,hot When l checked the T piece on the coolant system it was blocked,then fell apart. Made one and working fine,now the throttle body gets hot. Would bypassing the throttle body make any difference Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited February 5 by 1200bandit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 On 05/02/2024 at 15:17, 1200bandit said: Have fitted a K&N type air filter, Some people are not a fan of this set up as it will suck up hot air from the engine bay. The coolant that goes though the throttle body gets hot which in turn heats up the throttle body, Does this heat up the air going through or is going to fast to get warm,hot When l checked the T piece on the coolant system it was blocked,then fell apart. Made one and working fine,now the throttle body gets hot. Would bypassing the throttle body make any difference Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. It’s to stop freezing when it’s cold and high flow at low throttle opening 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1200bandit Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 Air pipe arrived today,got to work out how to fix it to the air intake hole in the front panel, .Job for tomorrow Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 Side of rad, lower than chasis leg, that will bring plenty of air up and push the hot air away from the intake filter. However, this won’t help during traffic on hot days (one of the drawbacks from the cone type you chose) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1200bandit Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 Also thinking ( don’t think it will work) of putting a computer fan in some how ( my mate has a computer shop so can have a good look) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 (edited) 58 minutes ago, 1200bandit said: Also thinking ( don’t think it will work) of putting a computer fan in some how ( my mate has a computer shop so can have a good look) No it won’t work, not enough airflow mate. Bonnet vents far more efficient. Edited February 9 by Jessopia74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 (edited) Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Defeating the purpose, unless you are increase the surface area. Have seen a headlight removed and placed there for cold air, and boxed off. Alot of work, was told a c20xe on injection works better with original airbox fitted. Tricky due to space and modifications needed. Would the CIH original box work with a cone filter? And force feed that. I've played about with cold air feed, and only ever noticed a small difference, and that was probably due to weather, heat wave, but cold dense air at sunset, 10pm. Not a manta. Edited February 9 by ®evo03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 1 hour ago, ®evo03 said: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Defeating the purpose, unless you are increase the surface area. Have seen a headlight removed and placed there for cold air, and boxed off. Alot of work, was told a c20xe on injection works better with original airbox fitted. Tricky due to space and modifications needed. Would the CIH original box work with a cone filter? And force feed that. I've played about with cold air feed, and only ever noticed a small difference, and that was probably due to weather, heat wave, but cold dense air at sunset, 10pm. Not a manta. I be;ueve the original air box would work best with just a K&N element tbh 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1200bandit Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 2 hours ago, ®evo03 said: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Defeating the purpose, unless you are increase the surface area. Have seen a headlight removed and placed there for cold air, and boxed off. Alot of work, was told a c20xe on injection works better with original airbox fitted. Tricky due to space and modifications needed. Would the CIH original box work with a cone filter? And force feed that. I've played about with cold air feed, and only ever noticed a small difference, and that was probably due to weather, heat wave, but cold dense air at sunset, 10pm. Not a manta. As you know the is very little room on the O/S inner wing ( had to move the overflow bottle forward) .l think is going to be snug with just the pipe running from the front panel to the filter.if it works brilliant if not no big problem. Hopefully will have time this weekend to fit it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 I have the same opinion as Jess, years ago I rebuilded the intake of the original filter box to a wider dimension: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I made sure it fits into the hole next to the radiator: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. From there you can make an air intake in the front bumper, and I fitted a K&N air filter in the original air box. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1200bandit Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 Did get some 3 inch flexible pipe Made a adapter to fit the front panel,secured to panel The 3 inch pipe fits way better than l thought Very happy with it turned out ,secure and looking very tidy Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 Will supply plenty of fresh cool air that, good job 👍 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick H Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 I'm not so sure, my Starlet had a similar set up when I bought it, had to rev the f out of it to set off when the engine was warm & still took alot of revs to keep it moving! BUT the cone was by the bulkhead so no real surprise 🥵. Fitted a standard airbox with a pipercross filter, still runs beautifully. Also had a cone filter on a previous Manta, my solution was to make a heat shield out of plastic, bolted to the radiator support and chassis rail, then curved in and over the inner wing, essentially a large airbox once the bonnet was down. Not perfect as there were still gaps for hot air to get in but it made openings to cool air more significant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1200bandit Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 The original air box has air pipe of about 1 inch and not a snug fit onto the front panel. My thinking is that the air is restricted by the air intake pipe,then though the air filter, With this setup more air going in better running. ?? ( hopefully) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 20 minutes ago, 1200bandit said: The original air box has air pipe of about 1 inch and not a snug fit onto the front panel. My thinking is that the air is restricted by the air intake pipe,then though the air filter, With this setup more air going in better running. ?? ( hopefully) Tiny bit less restrictive, but you won’t notice the benefits as you lose the ram effect that OEM intake gets at forward movement of vehicle. The front of the car would have a slight positive pressure. It’s a trade off what you have done. You won’t rev your engine high enough or long enough to yield the airflow benefits that d=filter could deliver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1200bandit Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 I think only covered about 250 miles last year,got to use it more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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