Gte Engine Running Problems

[73 manta a]

Hi, im having trouble with my manta a which is fitted with a 2.0 gte engine and injection system. The trouble is as soon as i drive it anywhere it develops a misfire and the engine eventually dies. It will idle happily though and rev when stationary until about 3500 rpm then goes flat. I have tried a diferent ecu, air flow meter, loom and injectors and i am out of ideas. It seems like its flooding. Can anyone help?

[stradacab]

You say it is flooding, why do you say that? Loss of power would normally be a lack-of fuel.

Difficult to say based on the info supplied but you might want to change the fuel filter. They are often forgotten about and can block when very aged (especially on a dirty tank)

The Fuel pump could be breaking down, (have you changed it out yet to eliminate?) or fuel pump relay may be failing when warm.

Hope this helps.

Edited February 21, 2010 by stradacab

[73 manta a]

You say it is flooding, why do you say that? Loss of power would normally be a lack-of fuel.

Difficult to say based on the info supplied but you might want to change the fuel filter. They are often forgotten about and can block when very aged (especially on a dirty tank)

The Fuel pump could be breaking down, (have you changed it out yet to eliminate?) or fuel pump relay may be failing when warm.

Hope this helps.

Hi, the fuel pump and filter are brand new as i had to convert the car to run injection instead of carbs by using a swirl pot. I have taken the plugs out after the engine has died and there is a strong smell of fuel from the cylinders so i would assume that fuel isnt the issue now but could be wrong.

[stagcar]

Hi, the fuel pump and filter are brand new as i had to convert the car to run injection instead of carbs by using a swirl pot. I have taken the plugs out after the engine has died and there is a strong smell of fuel from the cylinders so i would assume that fuel isnt the issue now but could be wrong.

Did you use the original pump wire's? if so you may have a problem with the conections on the pump also worth checking the fuse they tend to get hot it the contacts get dirty then they go open untill cooled down. My one used to do it all the time. turns out the pump was stuffed in the end that was loading it up to much.

worth just sticking a meter across the pump when it cuts out. that will point you in the right direction

if not fule you need to check the ignition, pop plug lead off and stick an old plug on it and see if you still have a spark after it cuts out.

Cheers

Derek

[IanMc]

Have you checked the condition of all rigid and rubber fuel pipes?

[73 manta a]

Have you checked the condition of all rigid and rubber fuel pipes?

All the fuel lines are brand new and are now inside the car. There are no leaks or anything. I have ran new wires to the pump and all is ok in that area. The engine runs fine when stationary until it gets hot, then it can get a bit rough. could it be a temp sensor or ignition fault?

[moodoo]

I had an ignition amp fail on my injected manta a, that caused her to die occasionally when hot. The backing plate on the amp had actually come away from the body itself, and it was too hot even to touch after she'd been running for a while in hot weather. Amps can be got cheaply, there's a VW/Audi part that will do the trick, I can look up the part number if you want to try that. If you do replace it, make sure to put some heatsink compound underneath, so it can dissipate the heat away to the bracket underneath.

I also had a temp sensor fail, when cold it was telling the engine it was starting somewhere inside the arctic circle, so was putting in way too much fuel at startup.

Yours could have failed the other way I guess, if the resistance of the temp sensor isn't falling low enough as she warms up, then it could still be putting 'cold start' levels of fuel even when warm, and flooding it. Either swap a new temp sensor in, or solder a resistor (can't remember the 'hot' resistance level, but I think its a few hundred ohms..??)to two flying leads, and plug in place of the temp sensor and see if that helps.

[mantasrme]

As you've converted it to injection where do you have the fuel return pipe fitted?

Does it go to the swirl pot or to the tank, and if it goes to the swirl pot is there also a return to the tank from that?

The reason i ask is you might be getting too much fuel pressure if there isn't a return to the tank.

Pressure is regulated normally by bleeding fuel back into the tank

If your bleeding it into a contained loop that is constantly getting more fuel from the pump the pressure will increase until the engine stalls from flooding

There's an easy way to test this take the return pipe off at the manifold and put into a fuel can.

Start the engine and see if its better reving cleanly etc.

[eldoradoCoupe]

I had similar issues a while ago, the fault turned out to be a new but dodgey fuel pump. I traced it by sticking a pressure gauge on the 5th injector and a voltmeter across the pump and going for a drive with a gauge and multimeter on my lap. Fuel pressure was falling during the misfire but voltage not.

I sent the pump back and the supplier tested it and said it was alright so I stuck it back in and problem came straight back. Eventually stuck on a pump from a different supplier and haven't had a problem since.

[keith1200]

Are you getting fuel flooding on all spark plugs? Have you checked the spark plugs? iffy plug(s) would result in a similar problem. Check the gauge setting also. If you've got a spare coil/ht leads? use them. Hopefully its something simple

The three things I always check for (A to Z);

(1) spark

(2) fuel

(3) combustion

GL

Keith

[mantadoc]

I would check.............

EVERYTHING in a logical order. You could go throuogh lots of random suggestions and get no-where

Now my random suggestion(s)

I have come across a few Mantas in the past that did this for a period of time, basically would idle and would rev at no load but not pull and stall.

Some times it is intermittant. J reg did it once, never re-appeared after re crimping the live ring terminal on the starter motor.

If your swirl pot doesn't have an overflow back to the tank that setup is kind of flawed so start with what's different if the setup ran ok before.

Then check all the bits as per a manual (Haynes?) and then maybe download one of the Jetronic maintenance guides off the net.

[73 manta a]

hi all. Thanks for your replies. In regards to the swirl pot, it does have a return line from it to the fuel tank. The plugs are getting wet after checking them when the engine has died. I have tried a coil, distributor and cap today but it wouldnt start but i think that was down to the distributor being nackered. would it be best to try a ignition amp next? Thanks

[Exclusive Opel]

The other month, my ignition module started to fail on me. It would cut out driving along. Then when I was in a car park it wouldn't start and then it would for a couple of seconds and die. I swapped the ECU, fuel relay and the ignition module over in the car park (I like to carry a few spares!) but it was the module. Also, the little loom that connects the coil, module ect together failed on my last Manta due to an internal intermittent break on one of the wires.

For a list of cars that use the same ignition module, see the link:

Link

Edited February 23, 2010 by Exclusive Opel