TheRealExile Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Does anyone have a copy of the Manta version of this...or is it the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 (edited) That looks like a Mk2 cavalier. There should be a brake proportioning valve in the circuit for an Opel manta or Mk1 cavalier. The manta has a single line from the master cylinder to the rear brakes that travel through a brake proportioning valve. The passenger side front brake line also goes to the brake proportioning valve. Edited March 24, 2016 by Snowy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealExile Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 Cheers... I was being lazy looking at ready made kits but they don't have the pattern for the B, I'll just buy a coil of pipe and copy what's there myself I think...only me to blame then if it doesn't fit right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 There is guy on eBay that sells kits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robah Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Automec used to sell the brake kits but just looking at the site they don't advertise for the Manta B. Might be worth contacting if they can make one up, I got my kit from them a few years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Depending on master cylinder age front right pipe can be double or single flare at master end. Worth checking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealExile Posted March 25, 2016 Author Share Posted March 25, 2016 Thanks for the advice everyone, I think I'll go down the route of take a bit off at a time copy and put at least near where it's supposed to go so I don't forget how it all goes back together Regarding bleeding afterwards I have always used the old method, is it worth buying one of the bleeding systems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 The only reason I use a pressure bleeder is so I can do it on my own Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vauxhallkeith Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Ad defo say its worth doing the pipes urself. That way the ends ar correct and the length is right. Copper nickel pipe looks good if u hav the patients to work with it. Little bit dearer than copper pipe. As for bleeding it. U can get a bleeder kit. But 9 times out off 10 gravity bleeding works fine for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 (edited) 50 minutes ago, vauxhallkeith said: Ad defo say its worth doing the pipes urself. That way the ends ar correct and the length is right. Copper nickel pipe looks good if u hav the patients to work with it. Little bit dearer than copper pipe. As for bleeding it. U can get a bleeder kit. But 9 times out off 10 gravity bleeding works fine for me. Gravity bleeding can work well. But I've never found it to work on the rear brakes when all the lines have been renewed. Seems to have issues at the proportioning valve. Or should I bleed to the valve then the rear cylinders? Gravity bleeding is definitely the easy more relaxed way of doing it. Edited March 25, 2016 by Snowy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vauxhallkeith Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 A normally gravity bleed them then pump the pedal 10 to 15times then re bleed them. If still not right then shout sum1 out the house to press the pedal. Most times am on my own at my work at nyts. If u arent fitting new wheel cylinders then a bleed them at the pipe end before tightening them up. Same with the front. Pressure bleeding should only be dun under 30psi off air. And u can blow seals with them. A still use old school methods even tho av spent hundreds with snap on buyn fancy bleeding tools. Gravity bleed then pedal bleed if not happy with pedal mate, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MANTAMAN Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 On 24/03/2016 at 3:26 PM, TheRealExile said: Regarding bleeding afterwards I have always used the old method, is it worth buying one of the bleeding systems? I made my own pressure bleeding system, i have a small compressor which i find a 'must have' item for working on cars, not used that often but when it is needed there is no alternative, plus if it has the capacity to run air tools then you'll fall in love with it, an air rachet is so addictive !! To make the brake bleeding system i created, it uses an old brake master cylinder reservoir cap, i took the centre out of it (the bit with float and wire terminals) and made two disks of steel that just fitted inside the cap, i found a bolt that fitted tightly into a piece of air line, i carefully drilled a small diameter down the centre of the bolt, I driled bolt diameter holes in the centre of the steel disks and with one either side of the reservoir cap i put the bolt through (head inside the cap) and tighted a nut onto the bolt, then attached a length of air hose clamped with a jubilee clip, the other end of the air hose has the appropiate air connector. Now when i bleed brakes on a car i put this adapted reservoir cap onto the brake master cylinder reservoir, couple it up to my air compressor and regulate a little pressure into the set-up, then i can put my old coffee jar with a clear plastic pipe (through a hole drilled in its lid) put the pipe on the bleed nipple at each wheel and just open the bleed nipple and watch till there are no bubbles going down the pipe then close the bleed nipple, so easy, just make sure that the reservoir fluid level does not drop too low, if you are filling a dry system then you will have to stop, disconnect the cap and top up the reservoir at least halfway through the process. I visited the Vauxhall Luton plant many years ago (the MK 3 Cavalier was being produced, yes 'that' long ago !!) and they filled the brake system in a similar fashion, the Cavaleir was suspened on the production line, a worker on a higher level put a large pipe on the brake master cylinder reservoir, another worker underneath put a small pipe on each brake bleed nipple (already in the open position) the Brake Fluid was pumped down into the Cavalier at 2000psi !! the worker underneath after a few seconds went around and closed each bleed nipple, there must have been some form of suck back or shut off on the delivery pipe to avoid engine bay spillage. it was watching this method that gave me the idea for my air pressure bleeding system. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealExile Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 That sounds much more fun than pumping the pedal My old compressor died sadly but the Mrs works for a certain large hire company so I can hire stuff for free...although I would like to have my own as it always worries me 'what if it breaks!' More stuff to add to my list of wants esp an air ratchet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KBK Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 Hi My manta has a single line from the master cylinder to the rear brakes that travel through a brake proportioning valve. The passenger side front brake line also goes to the brake proportioning valve. Does anyone have a diagram that actual shows the passenger front and the other side not passing thru valve? People here states my car is wrong. Cheers Kristian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 38 minutes ago, KBK said: Hi My manta has a single line from the master cylinder to the rear brakes that travel through a brake proportioning valve. The passenger side front brake line also goes to the brake proportioning valve. Does anyone have a diagram that actual shows the passenger front and the other side not passing thru valve? People here states my car is wrong. Cheers Kristian Hi Kristian, hard to be exact without a picture of yours, but if you take a look in this thread, you can see how a valve is piped up. It only gets it check pressure from the one side of the front though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1200bandit Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 Try reverse bleeding. fill a syringe full of brake fluid,open a brake nippel ( start at N/S rear work your way around) Push the syringe in the master clylinder should fill up (it May over flow so keep checking) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KBK Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 9 hours ago, Jessopia74 said: Hi Kristian, hard to be exact without a picture of yours, but if you take a look in this thread, you can see how a valve is piped up. It only gets it check pressure from the one side of the front though. Hi my question is regarding the pipe layout. passenger side is thru the proptional valve, drivers side is directly from master Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoobby Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 4 hours ago, KBK said: Hi my question is regarding the pipe layout. passenger side is thru the proptional valve, drivers side is directly from master Yes that's correct same as mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 7 hours ago, KBK said: Hi my question is regarding the pipe layout. passenger side is thru the proptional valve, drivers side is directly from master Yes read the thread I linked it shows pictures of the valve piped up and then verified. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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