®evo03 Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 That's frustrating.....id be onto them! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted March 31, 2022 Author Share Posted March 31, 2022 9 minutes ago, ®evo03 said: That's frustrating.....id be onto them! Indeed mate, they will be getting feedback already. I will also explain the cost per hour I charge 😀 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted April 4, 2022 Author Share Posted April 4, 2022 (edited) Had a little time at weekend. Originally went down to get into storage unit, but next door had blocked it all up again 🤬Anyway, we had a slight miss fire when cold so when I checked the plugs, the engine was fitted with OEM GM plugs, so another item OEM part needing to be replaced, NGK-R under £10 for 4 from local factors was already here waiting. So used to buying modern plugs that cost double that for 1 🙈 Good opportunity to teach my lad about old school set plug gaps and replacement of the plugs with a bit of copperslip on threads etc. or sone would say let him get dirty rather than me 😂 Anyway, pesky cold misfire eradicated, so he did a good job. Bad news is though, I had a call off my mate today, said was a puddle under front of car and he thinks the rads bottom weld might be leaking ffs. This CoolEx rad is turning out to be a fecking nightmare 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬 Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited April 4, 2022 by Jessopia74 Correct ‘auto correct’ mistakes lol 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted April 7, 2022 Author Share Posted April 7, 2022 (edited) Picked up the bottle of propane today so I could get the exhaust over axle heated (we use propane & oxygen in the garage)and bent into the correct shape. Chopped and re-welded the bracket on the back-box into correct position (radius on the pipe needed to be tighter and slightly moved away from the panhard rod pick-up). New clamps and rubbers fitted. NOW I am happy with its fit, and the sound is very good tbh. So that’s the new exhaust fully fitted now. Edit. Rad is not leaking, cap seal seems to be issue so it just leaks off the excess when it expands. Ordered a new cap, luckily plenty of these are available. Going to have original re-cored anyway so I have a spare. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited April 8, 2022 by Jessopia74 Update on Rad 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted April 8, 2022 Author Share Posted April 8, 2022 (edited) Last of the little jiggles I noticed on on the chassis rail, just under the jacking point. Did not look too bad, certainly not as bad as the O/S I did a few weeks back, but as usual these things progress to be more than expected. Could see a crack in the rail behind the jacking point, so I had to deal with it. Got the bulk of it cut out, cleaned up, cured and then seamed a patch in. Just needs polishing tomorrow, then I have to replace the jacking point section. Luckily I have a few new Jacking points in the Lockup, so we will dig one out and get it replaced tomorrow, fill any low spots and the polish with flap wheel, prime, paint easy 5 min job 🤦♂️😂 The floor under jacking point is great, just looks like a cracked spot weld was where it’s all started. Usual wire wheel off the bulk of rust, treat with Hydrate80, weld through Zinc primer and weld 😎 Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited April 8, 2022 by Jessopia74 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted April 9, 2022 Author Share Posted April 9, 2022 Replacement of full panels always is preferable if they are available. Had I known how much I would need to replace in N/S rail, I would have ordered a new one, but it’s done now, Randy for the new jacking point - typical cuould I find the new ones today I know I have somewhere 🤦♂️ I’ll need to order another from TJM as my store is a bit full. So that left time to take a look at the spare wheel well. Obviously a bit worse than it looked, but lots of positives as the panels all around it, seems and sill edges are solid all good steel once I got the 1/2” of body sealant off the car. This must have been a car they needed to use up all the left over body sealer one😀 If they had only done this to all the Manta shells! I’ll weld it all in tomorrow or Monday and going to strip all the crud off the boot floor & lips to get them Hydrate80 where needed and new Raptor under seal to protect it. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted April 11, 2022 Author Share Posted April 11, 2022 Getting there. Finish off towing eye bracket tomorrow. Seam sealer and zinc primer in between all the seams. I have just Hydrate80 all the bare metal as I am leaving it overnight, and then just needs the ,Tiger Seal stripes’ seam sealer applied back on to the all joints areas I needed to grind it off. Going to need the paint shop repair the rear panel lower valance as the spot welder can’t reach inside the boot. Only good for the lip seams, rest needs to be mig welded. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted April 14, 2022 Author Share Posted April 14, 2022 Trying to keep jacking point original as it’s all solid, so stitching in just the bit I needed to chop out to gain access to that cracked spot weld in the chassis rail. What a bloody pig if a job. The new jacking points profile was like it’s off a completely different car altogether 😬 Heat, hammer and lots of rework in the vice to get the UU profile to match best I could, but got that last bit if welding finished YAY 🤣 So I’ll get it undersealed and stone chipped over the weekend, not the 1/2” thick it seems to have had on from new though Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted April 14, 2022 Share Posted April 14, 2022 Great job on the jacking point, had a nightmare myself finding the right diameter of tubing for the replacements available, why did they make em with the wrong tubing. As for rubber underseal, they where not afraid to pedal dash them in places. Going to concentrate on wheels sections on my shell, as these are the areas needing most protection. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted April 14, 2022 Author Share Posted April 14, 2022 Just now, ®evo03 said: Great job on the jacking point, had a nightmare myself finding the right diameter of tubing for the replacements available, why did they make em with the wrong tubing. As for rubber underseal, they where not afraid to pedal dash them in places. Going to concentrate on wheels sections on my shell, as these are the areas needing most protection. Yeah, the rube is completely wrong as you mention, it’s wrong diameter and not even in the same position. God knows what the patterned it off. It would have looked completely like I had welded a fire jacking point to car had I used the whole thing. Plan B if I could not get it reformed, I was just going to chop one off my dipped shell. (Lucky me I managed to get it resolved ) 😀 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted April 15, 2022 Share Posted April 15, 2022 yes the tubes always seem to be wrong on those ,not that anyone would use the originaltype jack anyway. on mine i fitted the whole jacking points and then added a large 6mm thick plate over it so a normal jack can be used without fear of damage.although always worth using a rubber pad anyway to stop slippage especially when doing rear ( under spring seat) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted April 15, 2022 Author Share Posted April 15, 2022 1 hour ago, cam.in.head said: yes the tubes always seem to be wrong on those ,not that anyone would use the originaltype jack anyway. on mine i fitted the whole jacking points and then added a large 6mm thick plate over it so a normal jack can be used without fear of damage.although always worth using a rubber pad anyway to stop slippage especially when doing rear ( under spring seat) That’s a pretty good idea 👍 could fab some cups /lips to stop the jack slipping I guess too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted April 15, 2022 Share Posted April 15, 2022 obvoiusly the purists would frown apon it but a 6mm thick plate where you would put front trolley jack would never rust away and would prevent damage to the' relatively' thin material the jacking point is made from !. practicality wins here realy. the people (myself included) who have blasted/ deoxed etc every single underbody part and painted them to perfection soon realise that they dont stay looking like new for long.yes you could only use a car for shows or in dry weather but they wernt designed for that .one winters use will surely take the edge off and make you wonder where all that effort went! BUT myself and no doubt most owners will use their cars as everyday transport as they were designed and that calls for more robust practical measures over delicate show cars . to me at least .no offence given or intended to others ! 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted April 15, 2022 Author Share Posted April 15, 2022 27 minutes ago, cam.in.head said: obvoiusly the purists would frown apon it but a 6mm thick plate where you would put front trolley jack would never rust away and would prevent damage to the' relatively' thin material the jacking point is made from !. practicality wins here realy. the people (myself included) who have blasted/ deoxed etc every single underbody part and painted them to perfection soon realise that they dont stay looking like new for long.yes you could only use a car for shows or in dry weather but they wernt designed for that .one winters use will surely take the edge off and make you wonder where all that effort went! BUT myself and no doubt most owners will use their cars as everyday transport as they were designed and that calls for more robust practical measures over delicate show cars . to me at least .no offence given or intended to others ! I am the opposite with regards to sealing the underside of the car. I understand the need to take it off, cure any surface rust then get it sealed! Get it back on as thick as it was from factory. The 400 is pained underneath, but it’s over Raptor, and that’s stone chip essentially. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted April 15, 2022 Share Posted April 15, 2022 They were not designed to last 40+ years, some modern cars are OK, some are a joke, must be either steel or paint quality, if painted at all, most are dipped and some stonechip, like later mantas. Thank some of the bs had some paint underneath, in body colour. It's hard work all that underbody work! But saves em in the end. As for jackpoints, was able to source correct tubing, so replaced before fitting. The 400s (ex works cars) had plated over front jacking points. 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1200bandit Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 It’s your manta so you do what you think will improve it When l had the red manta put some different wheels on it Some come along and did not like them wheels not original My replayed “good job is not your manta “ Have welded in some plates in the lower suspension arm Put 2 fog lights on the rear Not original but it’s my manta Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 14 hours ago, Jessopia74 said: I am the opposite with regards to sealing the underside of the car. I understand the need to take it off, cure any surface rust then get it sealed! Get it back on as thick as it was from factory. The 400 is pained underneath, but it’s over Raptor, and that’s stone chip essentially. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. yes thats what i mean too. ive done the 'restore and paint like new ' underneath but now ive realised that it doesnt last. so get it on and get it thick is my motto now ! my cars are used all year round on a weekly if not daily rotation and after a trip to work or few in the salt means a good washing underneath afterwards.and then in the spring the cars get up on the ramps for a damm good inspection,repair,recoat as req. anything suspect is done there and then and there are no suprises mot time. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted April 16, 2022 Author Share Posted April 16, 2022 (edited) Nothing done today, working on new house again and we went up to a classic car meet at Doncaster this evening with my Son. But we finished cleaning the under seal from the rear panels and boot seams yesterday, treated ready for re-application of stone chip. Dare I say car off to get paint done again 🤦♂️, well only on lower underside of panels up to each seam . Rear boot floor will be done in colour too, but that’s it as far as I can see should be in colour looking at Google pics ? Also had to drop the front airdam off it’s mounting to move it forwards enough to get access to re-fit the headlamp washer pipe, this genuinely did my head in 🤬 ( edit) little doodle was for positioning of the tow hitch back onto the spare wheel well 😀 Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited April 16, 2022 by Jessopia74 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted January 9, 2023 Author Share Posted January 9, 2023 New rims fitted. Not over convinced about them been silver now they fitted. The wheels look far better in a solid gloss. Perhaps black would look better🤔 Anyway, for those that are interested specs. Front 17x7.5” ET35 with 215/45R17 tyres Rear 17x8” ET35 with 235/40R17 tyres These are the max width for standard arches without any mods required. Car looks like it could do to me dropped another inch now, but not messing with that as the springs are new when I did the suspension refurbishment. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted April 10, 2023 Author Share Posted April 10, 2023 Well, got a bit of time on the Silver coupe today. As the underside had been Raptor (tinted stone chip) I had to refit the exhaust as body shop lost the rubbers 🤦♂️ so could not put it back on properly. Swapped out the old scummy looking high temp ‘hot air’ intake ducting that had been here for a few months, along with putting the re-cored original radiator back in (removed the Coolex I gad fitted temporary as that’s for the 400r). I have the original pressed board radiator cowling somewhere, but I think I might invest in a stainless one to help tidy up the engine bay look. Overall I now feel that the paint work is 99%, still has a few minor jobs that will be sorted when it’s detailed, but getting ready for summer 😎 main thing is the restoration underneath is now 100% completed and protected now for a few years. I do have the vinyl simewhere, but thinking I might only put the front nose Blitz badge on. Next on the list will be rear heating element tabs need repair (have some expensive Silver loaded epoxy for this) and rear quarter glass tabs need to be bonded again. Soon MOT time, but it now looks and sounds like it should at least 🥳 Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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