Jessopia74 Posted November 18, 2021 Share Posted November 18, 2021 2 hours ago, Jonathan Pounsett said: That engine is 170kg but I’ve done away with a few ancillaries so it’s probably not much heavier than a 2L CIH. I've set it back as far as I can (perhaps too far) to improve weight distribution. Yeah I don't think it is , that's pretty good. Rover V8 was around 170Kg and that was a bit lighter than the CIH boat anchor. So that's great. So it's prob there about same when considering gearbox etc, but a) power power b) it's sexier c) did we mention b 🤣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted January 15, 2022 Author Share Posted January 15, 2022 This afternoon I managed to bust open the lower steering column bearing. Is it something that can be repaired or do I need to find a new one? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted January 15, 2022 Share Posted January 15, 2022 1 hour ago, Jonathan Pounsett said: This afternoon I managed to bust open the lower steering column bearing. Is it something that can be repaired or do I need to find a new one? I got a new one from a chap on FB. Anthony Drosos in Greece if you need to find him, sell all sorts of original parts. Not cheap though at €86 inc postage. Part number in pic if you want to try other source Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share Posted January 17, 2022 Anthony had one. £81.00 inc express tracked delivery (€93) Thanks again @Jessopia74 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted February 2, 2022 Author Share Posted February 2, 2022 Master cylinder stripped and rebuilt. Easy job because it was brand-new and there’s nothing wrong with it. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Purged the brake lines with compressed air and popped out all 4 pistons 🤦♂️ Again easy rebuild because they were recently furbished and still like new. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 How you find the the peddle travel with the 4pots? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted February 2, 2022 Author Share Posted February 2, 2022 I’ve never considered it so it must be good. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trooker Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 What are those 4 pots from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted February 2, 2022 Author Share Posted February 2, 2022 8 minutes ago, Trooker said: What are those 4 pots from? They’re from a 7 series BMW Alex 🙂. So here’s the question; If the master cylinder is like new and working perfectly, the brake caliper is like new and working perfectly and the brake lines are clear and free flowing why do the pads not retract? Only one caliper is affected - the osf. Has anyone got any ideas? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 4 hours ago, Jonathan Pounsett said: They’re from a 7 series BMW Alex 🙂. So here’s the question; If the master cylinder is like new and working perfectly, the brake caliper is like new and working perfectly and the brake lines are clear and free flowing why do the pads not retract? Only one caliper is affected - the osf. Has anyone got any ideas? I thought maybe bias valve, but o/s. Could be flex ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 Before everybody goes to the scrapyard to look for those BMW calipers: Jonathan uses Commodore stubs so the distance between the "boltholes" is not the same as a regular Manta, check this first! About your question: Be sure the O-rings of the caliper pistons are in good condition, they pull the piston back when there's no pressure. And as Jess wrote sometimes the flexibles are blocked because the brakefluid swelles the inside of the flexibles. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted February 3, 2022 Author Share Posted February 3, 2022 Problem solved 😀 To limit the piston travel I had a piece of wood in each calliper where the disc would be. On the problem calliper the thickness of the wood was a lot thinner than the disc and this allowed the pads too much travel. So when I was bleeding the brakes the pads were jammed against the calliper with such force they wouldn’t return. With the correct travel the pads move freely and retract as they should. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 hour ago, H-400 said: Before everybody goes to the scrapyard to look for those BMW calipers: Jonathan uses Commodore stubs so the distance between the "boltholes" is not the same as a regular Manta, check this first! About your question: Be sure the O-rings of the caliper pistons are in good condition, they pull the piston back when there's no pressure. And as Jess wrote sometimes the flexibles are blocked because the brakefluid swelles the inside of the flexibles. As Herman says. These callipers are fitted to Commadore stubs and work nicely with Monza hubs and discs. Sorry I should have said. I also got them about 30 years ago so I doubt you would find any 😂. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 Nice that the problem is solved. We have a lot of "400" owners in the club that upgraded their brakes with BMW calipers, never had problems with the stock brakes of my "400" but if I would use that car for a track day I would fit them also. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted February 6, 2022 Author Share Posted February 6, 2022 1 hour ago, Jessopia74 said: Engine is high for that conversion, others I have seen never need the carb dampener holes in bonnet 🤔 I put a carb engined V8 in this Manta without cutting any holes in the bonnet. After it had been in for a while I did notice two small dents from the dash pots though. I do have clearance issues with the large “box” plenum on the 4.6 currently fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 Bonnet clearance is defiantly an issue even with the sloping plenum borrowed of my neighbours TVR. Now you see them…. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Now you don’t. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Bugger! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 That it tight, but still clearance is clearance 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 Spacer between crossmember mount and chassis legs. Might work? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share Posted February 9, 2022 1 hour ago, ®evo03 said: Spacer between crossmember mount and chassis legs. Might work? That would work as I’m only looking for 1 or 2mm. Great idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 (edited) On my Jag XJR they pack the subframe off the front legs from factory with large round glass fibre washers, more one side than the other to counter the road camber. So yes it would work, however, how close to the steering rack is the sump currently? As getting engine to sit lower would be the better option. So swapping to thinner engine mounts and adjusting here with packers would be preferential. There is a small amount that can be pinched from the std subframe too ( see pic, not finished in this one ofc) edit, just to mention you can't alter the steering rack position as such as the track rods need to stay parallel with the lower wishbones otherwise it will mess up steering geometry when the suspension goes through sone travel. Mine could be more extreme but the stub axles are different and arms sit lower to compensate Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited February 9, 2022 by Jessopia74 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 I have managed to overcome the engine clearance issues and can slip a piece of Kellogg’s Cocopops card between engine and bulkhead and the engine and the cross-member. I’m sure it will touch if I don’t avoid the potholes! 😬 The engine is in and running so I just need to tidy up the wiring then I can put the dash back in and finish the interior. IMG_0665.mov 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted March 17, 2022 Author Share Posted March 17, 2022 I made a new support for the rad and got it powder coated along with the washer bottle frame.Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted March 17, 2022 Share Posted March 17, 2022 That does look nice, what rad is it your going to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted March 17, 2022 Author Share Posted March 17, 2022 52 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said: That does look nice, what rad is it your going to use? Range Rover P38 standard equipment. It’s a bit too big really but is right for the engine so I shouldn’t have any overheating problems 🤞. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted March 21, 2022 Author Share Posted March 21, 2022 Radiator hanger and radiator are in. Just need to fabricate some top brackets. Does anyone know where you can buy blocks of rubber - something like a 2” cube. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted March 21, 2022 Share Posted March 21, 2022 I got nitrile block from a local plastics supplier. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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