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8 hours ago, cam.in.head said:

just out of curiosity. why do people want power steering on these. the std rack is nicely weighted with good feedback and not ridiculously heavy at parking speeds .is the corsa system speed dependant or would it become too light on the move ?

Heavier on GTE

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11 hours ago, GTEPETE said:

Will need a kit myself in the future....the yard I use has several Corsa's, can someone remind me which year steering column is  needed for this conversion?

Any Corsa B with the 1.0 3 cylinder engine has the EPS column. The 1.2 doesn’t have it as the engine has enough power to run a fluid system. Haha. 

the main issue now is these cars are starting to get thin on the ground! Best to check scrap yards and breakers. 

 

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The kits i've done for mantas so far tend to fall in to one of these catagories. 400 kitted car with wide tyres, quickrack fitted car for motorsport, elderly driver, arm/shoulder injury drivers, to stop the wife complaining they can't park it and the car needs to be sold (yes that's happened twice for mantas and many times for the VW T25 kits i also make). Another one i've heard is they need to fit a smaller steering wheel for leg/stomach room, although thats normally not a manta issue.

As steve said you need a corsa B column, which is getting harder to find due to their age/ low numbers originally/ and that they are common to fit into other cars too after many magazine/ internet articles explaining how to. Corsa B is easy to tell from the later C by the ecu as the B is rectangular and has 4 plugs in a row on top of it. The C has a square ecu with 2 plugs on 2 sides. Picture bellow of a B column, this is what you need including the lower link part

Also of note it needs to be from a right hand drive corsa. The LHD won't fit and they are often the only ones on ebay for sale.

epas1.jpg.b962782a67e90dbd7bb824968ac3af38.jpg

I don't bother with a speed sensor controller due to the issues of fitting and as Paul says its only 3 different levels at different speed brackets.

The controllers i use have a dial adjuster but this is to set a base level for the particular car/driver. So a 400 with quickrack and slicks will want a higher base than a standard gt/e etc. There is a torque sensor on the column already and these controllers take an input from that and the dial then they produce a level of assistance. So for a fixed dial position it will give more assistance when stationary than on the move at speed because there is less resistance in the column and a lower torque sensor output.

Not all controllers do this, a lot of them don't use the torque sensor so its a fixed level of assistance from the dial position and can be super light (and dangerous) at speed. When i made my first kit (many years ago) i bought 5 different controllers, 3 were rubbish and 2 were good. One of the good ones is no longer made the other is the one i'v ebeen using for at least 10 years now and have had over 200 from him (i do a lot of vw T25 kits and now some TVR ones aswell as a few manta ones) without a single issue.

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When it's 30 degrees, and parking, 9 inch rims up front, Essentials, bottle of water, t shirt. Prep, both windows down. 

Park. 

Reverse the prep and essentials. Or fit a EPs. Park with one finger. 

See both sides, manta has a nice feel, and even with controller turned down it's 50% lighter.

Best bet is to try and find a spare column and remove the original, as all can be reversed. 

Edited by ®evo03
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