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Project "J"


stradacab
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Started to weld up the inner arch at the back, blew a couple of holes that I have to finish and tidy up the welds. The metal was a bit thin cause I cut off a huge plate and tried to leave as much of the orignal arch that was there.

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The repair piece I cut from the new wing, butt welded in, the old bit was very grotty...

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Wire brushed and self etch primed.

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You share my pain!

Yep every outer panel but the roof in 2006...... all one colour for the first time since I bought it in 1999 and two weeks later someone ran in the back.

I had even got the exclusive bumper to fit perfectly instead of kicked out corners like most that have had a rear panel....... not any more. If I had put the pressure in the radious to fit the bumper I would probably have had the age old kink by the petrol flap that lickily hadn't happened. Lesser of two evils.

(I noticed a Strada hiding in one of those pictures too!)

Remember I tried to sell you that one

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Another repair, this time to the "C" post where the window reveal and rear wing mating flange had half gone, again, given up by the breaker. Having really got it apart I don't think I could have done this without the replacememt panels.

You may notice the difference!

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Carefully cut and nearly ready to butt weld

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In and dressed off

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:thumbup

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On to the repair of the rear wheel envelope (to give it its correct term!) I've done this job in my head about 20 times! the challenge is to let in the repair part and get the edge right on point. If there is too much metal it will stop the wing lining up on top, too little and there will br a big gap that I will not be able to spot weld the arch to.

Measured loads of times and looked at it again and again from every possible angle. The prep took most of the time because I've butt welded again for accuracy and both the car and the repair piece have to mate together perfectly all the way round.

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I've offered the wing up and it looks bang on for fit! I'm just having a little nip of Jack Daniels before bedtime and feeling pretty pleased with myself tonight!!

Edited by stradacab
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Sometimes you just look at a job and think.... "But where do I actually start?!?" :blink:

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I've done a few rear sill repairs in my time but this will be the worst one I've carried out. Big glass of jack Daniels tonight to numb the pain!

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Thanks for the kind words guys!

Mantadoc- No way is it scratch made!! I can cut, bend and hit metal with a hammer but I was 22 years old last time I used a wheeling machine!! Cut off the old car and grafted in, that's all I'm afraid.

GT/J rarer than an genuine 400? probably. More desirable... probably not!

"How many left" website is unreliable cause it used the entry from the V5, so even if you look up Manta GT/J for '80-'82 that might not include ones down as something else.

I know of Al's old yellow one, passmethegun's white one (which is now a 400r)that red one that sold on ebay and was latterly being touted round at Billing last year for resto (Darren wouldn't let me buy it), Alex's one, that grey one at the beginning of this thread and the other (was it Ian Goacher's) pine green one I saw at Billing in 2006. So that's 7 I know of in total. Would love to know what else is out there- say another 7 in hiding?? 14 left in the country is my best guess...

Tonights effort.

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Why dont you cut/drill that crossmember out ? not all of it but about 8 or so inches from the sill to give access to all the inner sill. its goiing to be hanging under there as well and it will make it much eaiser to get at the ming and remove it.

Not telling you how to suck eggs though, feel free to ignore me !!

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Why dont you cut/drill that crossmember out ? not all of it but about 8 or so inches from the sill to give access to all the inner sill. its goiing to be hanging under there as well and it will make it much eaiser to get at the ming and remove it.

Not telling you how to suck eggs though, feel free to ignore me !!

I as thinking that too, but on Mine I did a couple of other plates first as had fear about the side of the car wandering out wider. Maybe notch some box section and slide on the lip from B pillar to B pillar. Also, whne you have this much out the jacking points will move in the chassis rails so I put my stands under the axle and worried about it sagging. If you put a jack under the under floor cross member you can vary the door gap by about 3mm on mine and you don't have the rigidity the quarter brings or the shut as a frame of reference. I found it a scary time.

If you want the dimensiones from the Vauxhall Cavalier Coupe Dealer body manual let me know

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Guys, thanks for your advice on this. I must admit that removing the cross member hadn't even occurred to me, dunno why, but that's the great thing about this forum!

This now gives a much better access to the repair and, as predicted, there is grot beneath.

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As a result I have had to extend my original plate to travel beneath the crossmember and into the rear footwell.

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And welded in...

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I will put the member back in tonight once the primer I have put on is dry. Much better job for that advice!!

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Thanks Mantadog, I remember seeing one at the Retro Rides meet at Sparkford last year, I wonder if that's the one you mean. May not have looked cosmetically like a GT/J or I would have paid a lot more attention. Will have to revisit the pics....

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Been back on the car this week. I have welded the inner sill in and made up a strengthener for the inside. As with the O/S, it doesn't come down and meet the sill botton as it should, the aftermarket sills are too far out to stand a chance of those mating up. I figure that the main purpose is to transfer load from the jacking point up through the central hoop that is made up by the B post and rollover bar. As the plate is stitched onto the inner sill and jacking point area I figure it is strong enough (It's certainly stronger than it was before!)

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