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Polar White and Rust - a restoration epic, can it even be done?


IanMc
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You are cracking on with this at a great pace and learning all the way.will be excellent when finished. Just make sure that every surface in and out is painted and protected then you dont have to do it all again in a few years .( ask me how i know this !)lol

 when done what are you aiming for ? . Original white with a vynil top and two tone rostyles ? Or do you have any other ideas ? 

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A bit more progress this afternoon.

I got the two rectangular gussets that I wanted to put between the main inner and outer sill plates welded in place.

Then I got the front jacking point patch plate in, then followed up with the outer sill back plate.

By the way, the Brown discoloration you can see is the fumes from the flux cored MIG wire, prior to me clearing it off...

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Sorry about the quality of the photos guys, I was rushing a bit as my Indian take away had just arrived  :lol:  :rolleyes:

I mentioned above that I would be adding additional gussets. I have decided that these will be triangular and be welded to the underside of the rectangular gussets and the sill backing plate. As you can see I have measured these out and transferred their shape to some off-cuts of sheet Steel - I like to use up my odds and sods... :thumbup


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Tomorrow I hope to cut up my outer sill repair panel and get that welded in!

3 hours ago, cam.in.head said:

 when done what are you aiming for ? . Original white with a vynil top and two tone rostyles ? Or do you have any other ideas ? 

 

I will be just going with gloss White Chris, including the roof. The Rostyles I have already done - these were actually one of my first jobs (to give me some motivation). They are all Black gloss with just the Vauxhall centers and chrome trim rings to break them up.

 

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Been a long tiring day and my hand is starting to hurt, but the OS sill is ON!

I started the day by drilling drain holes in my horizontal gussets then treating all of the bare metal that will be hidden inside the sill area. 


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Then I set about cutting the cheap (only £8.00) panel I found on Facebook Marketplace to the length needed. 


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Next I 'adjusted' the width of the body hole to match the full height of the repair panel.


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A few tack welds were added, then on with the real stuff...

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Some time later with the welds dressed up to look a bit better:


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This work then allow me to add the closing plate to the sill end, just below the lower half of the inner wing:


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This plate will be drilled tomorrow to allow the injection of some Waxolyl or something similar.

During the week I will do all the usual panel sealing, priming, undersaling etc etc

I'm actually very pleased with the way the sill area on this side has turned out, another step forward!

Cheers everyone.

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Another short update this evening. Today I received my new tin of brushable sealer, so this allowed me to go around the front of the OSR inner arch and OS sill.

Tomorrow (after the seam sealer has fully dried), I can apply the additional finishes - stone chip, body colour, underseal etc

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14 hours ago, IanMc said:

Another short update this evening. Today I received my new tin of brushable sealer, so this allowed me to go around the front of the OSR inner arch and OS sill.

Tomorrow (after the seam sealer has fully dried), I can apply the additional finishes - stone chip, body colour, underseal etc

How is the refurbished hand doing now Ian?

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6 hours ago, Julian said:

How is the refurbished hand doing now Ian?

Slowly improving Julian, many thanks for asking.

In truth, I often forget when I am working away and then suddenly it reminds me that its not yet 100% and starts to get painful or just ache. That's my cue to pack up now.

There is always the next day...

Cheers for now.

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23 hours ago, IanMc said:

Tomorrow (after the seam sealer has fully dried), I can apply the additional finishes - stone chip, body colour, underseal etc

 

All sorted!

 

So the remaining areas to be sorted out are:

- OSF floor area and jacking point

- Front screen surround

- Rear screen surround

- bottom of edge of the boot lid

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59 minutes ago, cam.in.head said:

So thats the rest of this week sorted then !.

 How did you go on with the boot lock bythe way ?

Ha ha, more like a month than a week mate!

The boot lock mini project has stalled at the moment, will come back to that later...

14 minutes ago, ®evo03 said:

That list is too short..... 4 points, double it, there is always more.

Great progress as always

Normally true, but that really is the list.

That should be the end of the welding and fabrication work, then onto filling, sanding and spraying - yawn lol

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Hi Ian nice to see the hands not slowing you down looks like you be on the road before me at this rate.me and the car have had a falling out and has been put to the back of the garden until it learns to behave itself:angry: so I thought I would try getting this back on the road needs a new steering rack and front to rear brake line which I'll be doing this weekend sounds easy but you wouldn't believe how much crap they managed to jam into the engine bay.best of luck with yours just watch that hand will take alot longer to heal if you over do it.

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5 hours ago, hoobby said:

Hi Ian nice to see the hands not slowing you down looks like you be on the road before me at this rate.me and the car have had a falling out and has been put to the back of the garden until it learns to behave itself:angry: so I thought I would try getting this back on the road needs a new steering rack and front to rear brake line which I'll be doing this weekend sounds easy but you wouldn't believe how much crap they managed to jam into the engine bay.best of luck with yours just watch that hand will take alot longer to heal if you over do it.

Hi Graeme,

Oh dear, whats happened with/to the Manta then? - is it still the rear brakes?

Crikey, I haven't seen one of those in like forever, what model is that?

I'm sure a man of your skills and experience will soon have both of those cars back on the road.

Good luck mate, speak soon!

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Yes still the rear brakes got to take the master cylinder off and send back to Germany for testing then a replacement will be returned will take a couple of weeks also water pump is leaking should have replaced that at the start but was trying to keep cost down to min as times are hard at mo.the car is a LHD 1986 mercury (ford of Mexico) cougar 3.8 V6 wide long two tons 120bhp and does 25 mpg and is known as a "slow turd" in the states paint work has done the the usual ford 80s thing but every thing else is solid good us steel.

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Good luck with the Manta Graeme, fingers crossed for a resolution soon   :thumbup

I live that Mercury, so rare. For me it’s just about performance figures or value, it’s about “when did you last see one of those?!”

Even the most common and humble of cars can now be viewed as genuine classics, just because you don’t see them anymore...

Best of luck with both cars Graeme.

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Now we move on to the Coupe's boot lid.

I am going to attempt to save this:

 

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First job will be to give everything a blast with the trusty twisted wire wheel in my angle grinder, then we will see what we have left to play with...

Oh by the way, the mauve/black 'stuff' you can see in the photos is just some old 'rust converter' liquid I brushed on about 10 months ago to try to slow things down a bit before I could get to tackle various areas of the car.

Wish me luck  :lol:  :rolleyes:

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So after creeping up on it and a surprise attack with the knotted wire wheel, this is what we have:


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Next out with the cutting disc!

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So after some chopping about, we were left with this:

 

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Then I made up some cardboard templates and cut the Steel out of some lengths I had recycled from the (now scrapped) drivers door - so original Steel is going back into the car!

After a few tacks, then a few more, we have this tonight:

 

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Tomorrow I will fill in more of the gaps between tacks and run over the whole lot with a flap disc to see how it looks. Then I will flip it over to make a new internal support for the lip. After that is inn place I can try to bend over the bottom edge of the lip to form the seam and add some real strength to the whole thing.

Have a nice evening everyone.

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Got a bit more done on the boot lid today.

I have finished welding the outside, but haven't yet dressed the welds there yet.

Next I made up some templates for the underside/inside strength/support structure. I got these cut out of sheet Steel a short time ago, bent them up, then roughly tacked them in place.

I think that they will be OK and should allow the lip to be folded over to give a nice strong, neat edge - fingers crossed.

 

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We are off out this afternoon, so that's me done for the weekend - more soon hopefully.

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Unfortunately this afternoons trip out was cancelled, so another couple of hours were spent on the boot lid.

All the underneath support strips were welded in, then all of the welds were dressed with a flap disc.


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After that I did a trial fit and it seems OK. It will certainly need some filer in two low spots and also a little panel beating here and there, but generally I'm quite pleased.


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2 hours ago, blitzi said:

you have some balls bud i would have binned that bootlid and used another wont you get a lot of distortion on the panel??

cheers wullie

Yep, I did  :lol:  :rolleyes:

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So long as the distortion is limited to the rear facing edge rather than the top and there are no high spots higher than the actual panel itself then it should skim over nicely and finish with a large sanding block .i once made a cavalier wing out of an ascona one and you couldnt tell the join even thou there was quite a bit of initial weld distortion. A far cry from some of my early wheelarch attempts where it looked like it had been riveted on !

It will be fine ,just make sure its well waterproofed/ sealed against inside outside damp penetration

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7 minutes ago, cam.in.head said:

So long as the distortion is limited to the rear facing edge rather than the top and there are no high spots higher than the actual panel itself then it should skim over nicely and finish with a large sanding block .i once made a cavalier wing out of an ascona one and you couldnt tell the join even thou there was quite a bit of initial weld distortion. A far cry from some of my early wheelarch attempts where it looked like it had been riveted on !

It will be fine ,just make sure its well waterproofed/ sealed against inside outside damp penetration

:thumbup

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This weekend I will make a start on the OSF foot well, inner arch and jacking point area.

As you will see the rust extends further forward than the NS, right up to the brake pipe access hole. This means that to get good access and make an effective repair here, I will first need to strip out all of the suspension components and the brake master cylinder and servo from the engine bay.


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Have a good weekend everyone   :thumbup

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