Worn engine mounts ?

[hoobby]

Took the manta to work and back first run its had for 13 years plenty to sort out but the main thing is when I start and turn off get a thump from the engine and front spoiler vibrates at idle also get a low frequency drone when accelerating doesn't sound anything like a whine engine mounts?

Things to fix

Leaking rocker cover

Rev counter only goes to 2000rpm (have spare unit)

Speedo reads 0 mph ( my fault I think very hard to refit cable with big hands)

Something knocking down the back somewhere 

Investigate the super heavy steering or could just be 13 years of not driving a non pas car

Keep getting strong smell of petrol inside can't find any leaks but will replace all the plumbing on the injection manifold

Other than that loved it....its good to be back .

 

 

[Snowy]

1 minute ago, hoobby said:

Took the manta to work and back first run its had for 13 years plenty to sort out but the main thing is when I start and turn off get a thump from the engine and front spoiler vibrates at idle also get a low frequency drone when accelerating doesn't sound anything like a whine engine mounts?

Things to fix

Leaking rocker cover

Rev counter only goes to 2000rpm (have spare unit)

Speedo reads 0 mph ( my fault I think very hard to refit cable with big hands)

Something knocking down the back somewhere 

Investigate the super heavy steering or could just be 13 years of not driving a non pas car

Keep getting strong smell of petrol inside can't find any leaks but will replace all the plumbing on the injection manifold

Other than that loved it....its good to be back .

 

 

If you really struggle to fit the speedo cable there is one thing you can do that makes it easy.

Unscrew the gearbox end which means you can push as much of the speedo cable through the dash as you like.

Then as you replace the binicle thread it back through and re connect the gearbox end.

[cam.in.head]

hi.

engine mounts easy to check.the rubber type are usually long lasting and can actually get harder with age rather than softer but you should be able to lift the engine by hand and note any bonding issues or overhard compound.the round type have been known to seperate from the metal but again its pretty rare but worth checking.

rear g box mounts usually go soft with age and oil contamination but again easy to check.

front spoiler  vibration MAY be a symptom of a bad mount ( hard) but if not it should be possible to dampen it with suitable blocks/ rubber / deadener material.

steering will most likely be ok as they tend to be a bit heavy at parking speed but nothing you wouldnt adjust to ( providing tyre pressures and alignment angles are ok)

and as regards the petrol smell,check thoroughly all the hoses preferably when just started from cold( less chance of evaporation) and replace the ones on the injectiors as they get brittle and can seep easily.always use a good quality heat resistant and fuel injection rated hose here if not everywhere.

bet above all this that is a great feeling getting it back on the road again after all this time. 

all the best

[611]

Must be a nice feeling 🙂 Im very close to the first run in mine for about 16 years!! With the rocker cover get one of the rubber gaskets, they work great, not one leak from mine so far. I will see if i an look out the details from where i got it from.

[cam.in.head]

yes a rubber one (frontera 2,4) type should be better .

the cork ones especiallly cheaper ones seem to be a bit pourous and seep quite soon.i usually make  100% sure both surfaces are clean and always use a snear of silicone both sides.

[611]

37 minutes ago, cam.in.head said:

yes a rubber one (frontera 2,4) type should be better .

the cork ones especiallly cheaper ones seem to be a bit pourous and seep quite soon.i usually make  100% sure both surfaces are clean and always use a snear of silicone both sides.

Thought it might have been the 2.4 one but couldn't remember.

Just get the rubber one, no gunk require 🙂

I have a spare, if you need i can take a pic of it.

 

Andy

[H-400]

It's this one:

The 2.4 gasket is great, no more leaks. The cork ones were always a problem with the GT rocker cover

[hoobby]

cheers everyone ordered one up

opel part No 90322930

last night at work tonight weekend off so time to check and fix all the issues i think there is a problem with the steering its very hard work driving round town got too close for comfort with a parked car 

 

[hoobby]

Just had a look at the engine mounts

Passenger side doesn't look bad at all looks a bit old but no cracks or splits

Drivers side 

 As far as i can tell the metal plate (heat shield) is in contact with the cross member bracket so the rubbers not really doing anything

 

Edited May 15, 2020 by hoobby

[cam.in.head]

its hard to tell from the picture but the heatshield locates in a little slot (as does the engine bracket) so its either moved( seems to look ok) or the rubber has sunk a bit. there should be a gap under the central section .someone may have a good used one available if in doubt .

or the metal plate is just bent diwn a bit ?

[malbasys]

The petrol smell: if you replaced any petrol hoses the new ones could be the problem.  I replaced old dodgy-looking hoses with new from a local motor factor.  Despite supposedly ethanol compatible, I ended up with a strong petrol smell.  On investigation, they had gone slightly soft - not leaking petrol or sticky but obviously letting fumes through. I replaced them with genuine Gates hoses: problem solved.

[H-400]

Had also hose problems. They were as yours soft, easy to bend.And not old! Replaced them with Gates Barricade. 

[hoobby]

20 hours ago, cam.in.head said:

its hard to tell from the picture but the heatshield locates in a little slot (as does the engine bracket) so its either moved( seems to look ok) or the rubber has sunk a bit. there should be a gap under the central section .someone may have a good used one available if in doubt .

or the metal plate is just bent diwn a bit ?

Got some better pics right side diver

Haynes Manual 

You can see the mount eating its way into the heat shield makes contact all the way round to me it looks like the rubber has unbonded from the steel and collapsed.

Going to replace both have seen bobbin style ones on eBay anyone used these review?

Also will it be a suitable replacement for the r/h side passenger as have a large disc type ?.

Going to rep!ace all the hose around the injection manifold 8mm Id ? And what about the individual injector feeds have what looks like a pressed ring?.

Edited May 16, 2020 by hoobby
Rubber hoses

[cam.in.head]

hi. yes looking at that better picture it does look suspect. maybee even detached from the metal but definately suspect. 

never tried the bobbin type but seen them for sale.always kept mine original style. 

the round ones are freely available on ebay and found on many gm vehicles .i seem to recall also seeing some of the other type too ,maybee listed as audi ?   compatible ? il have a look and let you know if i can find them again !.

 i have one of the larger and firmer style frrom a 6 cylinder if you struggle .

[hoobby]

Have been digging about found this about  replacing with bobbins would have to change the engine bracket to early style 

On 18/02/2017 at 21:30, mantadoc said:

I used to use the 3.0 Monza engine mounting rubber on the left side as it is same height but 50% bigger width wise.  Stopped engine tearing out and hitting the bonnet mostly

PS.

Only applies to older style  manta left mount, otherwise you need an older style engine mounting bracket as well if you have the daft round left side mount.

Thanks cam in head yes the rubber has completely separated from the steel I also would like to keep everything standard found the large round L/H  mount part No 90168890

Anyone got a part No for the R/H mount ?

How much work do I have to do to get them out?

[hoobby]

Found these opelaydin.com in turkey site no longer runs/ exists can only get a teasing look .

 

[cam.in.head]

hi. 

easy enough to remove.one at a time.this is how i do it. 

undo the top nut,

undo the bottom nut( fiddly)

lift the engine with a block of wood under the sump and trolley jack.

(some people dont lift the engine much but prefer to undo the actual engine bracket but this just seems like extra work and the  bottom bolts arnt exactly the easiest to reach.)

remove mounting when gap is big enough ,replace new mounting and top heat shield and very slowly let jack go down whilst ensuring the top slot all lines up. or have someone on jack operating duty !

DONT TRAP FINGERS !

ive had a good look around ebay but nothing obvious. however the audi 80 ones do look very similar with a bit of modification but not seen one in the flesh

[hoobby]

Thanks will pop them out tomorrow 

Finally think I've found the right hand mount (damper block) part numbers

90125434 or 684179 R/H/drivers side £67 for 1.6 1.9 2.0 n/s (I would assume same for L/H if you don't have the big round type)

90095190 or 684256 is for a 1.3

90168890 or 684256 L/H/passenger side (round type)

Will get the damper out might be able to confirm part number as casted into the rubber

Edited May 16, 2020 by hoobby

[IanMc]

9 hours ago, hoobby said:

 

 

90125434 or 684179 R/H/drivers side £67 for 1.6 1.9 2.0 n/s 

 

 

Ouch, that will sting your pocket a bit matey.

Have you thought about contacting Carl (Mr Carlos) to see if he has any good condition used ones?

[H-400]

@Hoobby: I replaced also the feul tubes on the injectors, is also 8mm ID, as the rest. I cutted them off and the ring just fell of:

 

used new clamps on that side:

Edited May 17, 2020 by H-400

[hoobby]

6 hours ago, IanMc said:

 

Ouch, that will sting your pocket a bit matey.

Have you thought about contacting Carl (Mr Carlos) to see if he has any good condition used ones?

Hi ian hope you are all well yes I could get a pair of bobbins (25% firmer) from eBay for £39 but would have to change the engine brackets on left side and I do have this thing about keeping it as standard as possible and I believe the larger round damper was fitted on later models to reduce engine movement and improve handling.will contact Carlos and post in parts needed. plenty have changed engines may have them kicking about.oh for both original and new about £110

2 hours ago, H-400 said:

@Hoobby: I replaced also the feul tubes on the injectors, is also 8mm ID, as the rest. I cutted them off and the ring just fell of:

 

used new clamps on that side:

Thanks Herman can see now its just like a normal replace job

[cam.in.head]

dont forget you can only replace the mounts one at a time & when you have replacements ready.or thats how i do it anyway .otherwise theres nothing for the engine to sit on.

dont 100% quote me on that as it may be that lifting the engine and removing both will be ok but the engine will only be held up on the jack and could topple to one side and trap wires,etc or fingers ! plus youd be leaving the jack under till the new ones arrive.

the early carltons as well as mantas used to have the block type on both sides then later mantas got a round damped type on lhs.

carltons got them on both sides but i personally never noticed any difference noise,refinement or otherwise ,they must be fitted for a reason otherwise they wouldnt have bothered. i would imagine there were improvements just me that didnt notice !

 

[hoobby]

OK cheers got passenger side out easy drivers side had to remove the bracket in the end couldn't get engine high enough.now its out have serious concerns about driving with them.

 

And now the real confusion starts doesn't match any of the part numbers for 1.6 1.9 2.0 engines and as far as I can tell this damper is for a 1.3 would explain the failure of this part i can compress it flat in my hands  so my quest continues 😕

[IanMc]

Looks like you have caught those just in the nick of time.

[hoobby]

Well its all back together and 3 things I have learned today

1 when someone uses the word " fiddly " your in for fun

2 get a Set of ratchet spanners had to keep turning the spanner in all configurations

3 be careful you don't break the earth strap....

...DOH !.