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Redtop XE and 1.8 GTE box upgrade into A Series


Phil Wheatcroft
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Afternoon all just joined the Club

Just collecting parts and advice with the aim of upgrading my fairly tired a series to a Redtop plus 1.8 gte box(both items already purchased) and looking for a heads up on the challenge from somebody who may already have done similar. 
 

If there’s anyone out there drop me a note as any previous experience and advice gratefully received 👍

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You'll probably need the 1.8 engine mounts, dipstick and sump as well to help with fitting the engine in.

Sides that, probably a smaller brake booster (VW polo Mk1?) is needed for clearence.

The stock XE engine loom and ECU can be used, and just requires 4 wires splicing in from memory.

Sides that, an upgraded radiator would be a good call

Edited by Ian N
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1 hour ago, Ian N said:

You'll probably need the 1.8 engine mounts, dipstick and sump as well to help with fitting the engine in.

Sides that, probably a smaller brake booster (VW polo Mk1?) is needed for clearence.

The stock XE engine loom and ECU can be used, and just requires 4 wires splicing in from memory.

Sides that, an upgraded radiator would be a good call

 

Cheers Ian

good to hear from you

So from your reply are you 100% that I’ll need the wide winged sump?

they seem difficult to find, retro power not longer selling 

Do you or anyone know of any possible sources U.K. or Europe?

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I fitted once an original Manta B 1.8 engine into a Manta A, remember I just had to make spacers between the 1.8 block and the alu mounts and used longer bolts. The wide wing sump fitted nice. Think the XE block is the same as the 1.8. Succes with the build

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They are about, sold my last one last year. But as said the escort steel ones will be fine just need the bowl at the rear

Exhaust is a pig in the A as there is less room with the anti rollbar in the way unlike the B which is foward mounted. 

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58 minutes ago, Paul Barrett said:

Exhaust is a pig in the A as there is less room with the anti rollbar in the way unlike the B which is foward mounted. 

Remember that, yes was a pain in the a**. Was in 1993...

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1 hour ago, 1200bandit said:

Just a thought,can you run the exhaust to the front then route to the back, have seen it done,can’t remember what car it was

Then you have to run under subframe which is no good, seen it on a Cleveland V8 A series. Rubbish IMO. 
the best solution is to space down the rollbar which has been done before with some alloy blocks milled out to profile, a nice solution for extra room. 
or 

compression struts and do a away with the rollbar, I have this setup on an A series subframe from my past V8 build

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Dropped mine originally on the anti roll bar as Paul suggested. Gives you much more room but then ended up making my own full system, so made it to fit nicely through the gap, its all a bit close btu works ok 🙂

Not sure if the wide sum gives you any issues?

 

Andy

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Nice one 👍

plan A then to space down the anti roll bar

i have read somewhere that it may be necessary to cut off one side of the wide winged sump to allow exhaust manifold/ exhaust to pass? Did either of you guys have this issue?

Gear box is on its way up from Taunton so timing wise start the dismantling beginning March with time off

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1 hour ago, Phil Wheatcroft said:

Nice one 👍

plan A then to space down the anti roll bar

i have read somewhere that it may be necessary to cut off one side of the wide winged sump to allow exhaust manifold/ exhaust to pass? Did either of you guys have this issue?

Gear box is on its way up from Taunton so timing wise start the dismantling beginning March with time off

I stuck with the old CIH so no sump issues as using the steel sump. I spent ages trying to get a bought system to fit by modifying it and then realise the sensible plan was to get everything all fitting in and then make that section (i also ended up maing the manifold in the end) to fit just how i wanted it. There is so much available these day for exhausts these days that its really easy to make up a system. I just tacked mine together and then took it to a local welder who then did it all properly with the tig welder.

Its so much easier to see how to get it to fit when its all in and spacing that roll bar about an inch will help loads.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

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1 hour ago, Phil Wheatcroft said:

Sound advice, many thanks 👍

Be good to see your pictures as you progress with the build.

Here is mine all setup. Took a while to get there 🙂

https://www.theopelproject.com/engine-all-setup/

Not sure on the setup for yours but i did a hydraulic clutch on mine and its so much better than the old cable and means no cable getting in the way.

https://www.theopelproject.com/hydraulic-clutch/

Im just about to fit a set of these (https://tiltonracing.com/product/600-series-overhung-mount-aluminum-pedal-assembly/) so then there will be no pesky brakes in the way! as all the master cylinders will be tucked up under the dash inside 🙂

Andy

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just a question . sort of relevant but slightly off topic . 

whats the advantage of using a wide winged sump anyway . ive heard it mentioned many times especially when fitting family 2 engines into mantas etc . the original sumps on a 1.8 i guess were "normal size " ?. anyway and perfectly capable . is it a capacity issue or cooling ?

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