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Polar White and Rust - a restoration epic, can it even be done?


IanMc
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A question Ian,

why is there a cable attached to the end of the master cylinder and where does it go? I’m just wondering as I have my manta b to re assemble soon and I can’t recall seeing this. I have a metal cable clip on the end of my master cylinder. cavalier coupe and manta b coupe are exactly the same in build.

The welding and fabrication is going great :thumbup

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OK, so some progress today - I have spent the last 3-4 hours clearing out the suspension and braking components from the OSF arch area and removing the servo and master cylinder.


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So now we get a better picture of what we are facing - gulp! lol

4 hours ago, Mike. said:

A question Ian,

why is there a cable attached to the end of the master cylinder and where does it go? I’m just wondering as I have my manta b to re assemble soon and I can’t recall seeing this. I have a metal cable clip on the end of my master cylinder. cavalier coupe and manta b coupe are exactly the same in build.

The welding and fabrication is going great :thumbup

 

Hi Mike, I hope you are keeping well?

That cable is the earth for the brake fluid level switch. It goes back to just in front of the washer fluid bottle where I have a twin connection with the terminals at 90 degrees to each other - if that makes any sense. I can take a photo of it if it helps you?

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Last update for today.

With the brake master cylinder and servo removed, I decided that they needed a bit more of a spruce up, so went for something a little different to the norm...

Naturally they will need at least another coat.


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After that it was wire wheel time to see what was hiding beneath the underseal etc in the footwell area.
There was actually more solid metal than I expected to be honest.  :rolleyes:


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The triangular piece you can see is where the accelerator pedal lower support bracket is mounted to the floor. My plan is to try to work around this, patching/supporting to a solid edge. This will mean that I don't have to try to move and then relocate this - that just seems like unnecessary trouble to me!   

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So its Blue Peter time again...

Earlier I marked out the first area to be repaired and made a cardboard template as required:

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Then I transferred that shape to one piece of the recycled Steel taken from the scrapped drivers door:


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This means that this particular piece of Steel will be re-homed literally inches from its original home of about the last 40 years, that make me feel happy lol

Then it was time to cut out the rotten section in preparation for the new piece:


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This afternoon I cut out the Steel and prepared it for welding in place tomorrow night. It looks like it should fit nicely - phew.


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Have a nice evening everyone.

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Today's little update - I got some welding done this evening.

The patch panel that I made up yesterday, fitted nicely and the welding turned out OK too.

This is what I have after a few minutes with a flap disc to tidy things up a bit.


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Tomorrow I will select another area to patch. I realise now that I made a big mistake cutting everything away on the NS footwell - I should have taken away one piece at a time and welded in the patch to make keeping the shape/profile easier.

Oh well, you live and learn dont you?!

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13 hours ago, moodoo said:

Keep plugging away Ian, your bravery is only matched by your determination! Thanks a lot for the effort in documenting everything. Great stuff to follow for us mere mortals!

Fin

Ha ha, thanks Fin - appreciated.

 

Bravery and determination are plentiful, but sadly my skills are not  :lol:

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Some more progress tonight on the OSF inner wing / footwell area.

First I had to cut away some more rust:


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Then I made up a couple of cardboard templates and cut the sheet Steel.

After that of course the patches were welded in:


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Then after a quick waz with the flap disc:


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Later in the week I can start to work my way across the top of that area, before moving right to the section of the inner wing that sits just above the chassis rail.

It's definitely easier replacing smaller sections, one at a time - rather than hack everything out and then try to figure out the shape and size of what used to be there...

Sorry about the Orange tint on some of the photos folks, that's a reflection of my Offshore spec flame retardant overalls...

Have a good one!
 

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More messing around with cardboard templates this evening. Its surprising how long this process actually takes. I have quickly learnt though that the time taken to produce a template is repaid by the ease of fitting/welding it in place, plus it just seems to look better.

I will get the rust cut out from the areas I have called 3 and 4 and hopefully get the patch panels cut out of the sheet and grafted in over the weekend.


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:thumbup

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3 hours ago, moodoo said:

Curiosity...What tool do you find best for cutting the steel patches out of the sheet?

Hi mate,

I’ve messed around with two or three different things, but quite honestly an angel grinder with a 1mm cutting disc takes some beating for speed and accuracy.

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It was Archery night tonight, so only a very small update.

Before I went off to shoot some arrows, I managed to get the rust cut away from areas 3 & 4 and also cut out the patch panels.

 

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When I got home I decided that I would try to tack the two panels in place for full welding tomorrow - you know a bit of a head start on the weekend...

 

Well in my haste I completely forgot to remove the accelerator pedal and its plastic mount from inside the cabin. This is what I have left of the mount now:

 

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What an idiot!

Now I'm desperately worried that I wont be able to find a replacement as my car is an auto and I assume that the mount is different?

Can anyone offer any help or advice here please?

I feel so stupid.

:(

 

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Putting aside last nights school boy error for a while as I look for a solution to that problem, I pressed ahead this morning and got areas 3 and 4 welded in:

 

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I am pleased to report that I now have a rock solid OSF inner arch, well the rear section is anyway...

Next I will probably tackle the small area to the right and slightly up from there. This area of the inner arch is whee the brake servo and master cylinder sit in the engine bay, so it makes me wonder if spilt brake fluid has caused the corrosion over many years. We will never know of course.

 

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After that I will move inside the cabin and make a start on this rotten floor section:

 

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Have a nice weekend everybody  :thumbup

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Some good progress to report in today's little update.

This morning I have managed to repair the rusty inner wing area where it meets the chassis leg. Of course this area also extends into the engine bay in the area of the master cylinder, servo and the OSF rigid brake pipe.

So we started of with this:


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After the usual origami:


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Then some cutting and welding later we now have this:


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This area can now be treated with corrosion resistant coatings, panel sealed etc.

After that I can refit the servo and master cylinder. The last two jobs mentioned will probably be done early next week.

Then its inside to tackle the floor...   :rolleyes:

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I decided to press on and cut away the rot in the OSF floor.

Whoops!  :lol:


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My first decision is how to tackle the jacking point. Believe it or not, two thirds of it is very solid. So I guess the question is repair or replace? Even if I chose the repair option, I'm not sure at this point how I would do it. That will keep my brain busy walking to work tomorrow  :rolleyes:

Enjoy your evening folks.

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Easy.... replace it, im cutting of a half decent one, passengers side,  to replace it with a new one, at my rate of speed its gonna be after christmas, when the car is upside down! 

I should have an noisy pedal plasic mount from a manual if your stuck, will look in my stock! 

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29 minutes ago, ®evo03 said:

Easy.... replace it, im cutting of a half decent one, passengers side,  to replace it with a new one, at my rate of speed its gonna be after christmas, when the car is upside down! 

I should have an noisy pedal plasic mount from a manual if your stuck, will look in my stock! 

Hi mate, I hope you are well?

I’ve got the pedal mount sorted, but sincere thanks for the offer!

With regards to the jacking point, your probably right, but the thought of trying to dig the front up stand out from between the sill and floor skin worries me...

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I guess that these two photos prove that any bodge job can look half decent with some POR15 on top    :lol:   :thumbup


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Apologies once again for the reflection of my Orange overalls!

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A tiny update this evening.

Only applied some seam sealer to the joints I welded at the weekend - got to try to keep that horrible water off my work lol


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Not pretty, but who cares when there is a some stone chip and a couple of coats of underseal to go on top.

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Right, the way forward for the OSF jacking point has been decided - I am going to try to repair it. 

Yes, its easier to just buy one and weld it on, but where's the fun in that?

By making my own I might fail, it might look rubbish and it might take ages - but I will learn some things along the way that might help others and it will be way cheaper.

This is what it currently looks like:

 

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My plan is:

- Weld in two pieces of mild Steel round hollow section / tubing. These will go in the two 'valleys', either side of the central hump.
- Weld the two ends of these tubes to the chassis rail and inside face of the sill. This should brace that corner, add stability and strength.
- Weld in a short length of the same tube to the underside of the hump.
- Carefully cut away the rotten sections of the right hand 'valley' (cutting around the tube as required).
- Create some repair sections from sheet and weld them to the material left. I think that I can form the sheet around a round bar to get the curves required to match it up.
- Cut out the rotten section of the central hump (leaving the tube I have temporarily fitted to brace and act as a shape guide.
- Make up a curved repair patch for this section.
- Remove the temporary tube under the central hump.
- Stand back at glory at the mess I have made   :lol:

Will it work?, who knows?! - but I'm going to try anyway!  :rolleyes:  :thumbup

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A quick lick of White Smooth Hammerite, prior to the stone chip:


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Oops, just spotted the drips on the outer pedal support bracket - oh well, the underseal will disguise those...

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So today has been all about the OSF jacking point.

I did have second thoughts, but in the end I decided to follow my plan.

Up in the rafters of the garage I had about a Metre of Steel tube/pipe of the size I wanted to use. It had 3 mm wall thickness, so nice and strong for the job.


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After cutting two pieces to the desired length, I notched the end as the outside edge of the jacking point rises slightly. This meaning that the pipe wouldn't sit right without doing this.

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Next I welded the pipe into the two valleys of the existing jacking point:


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After that I cut away the rusty Steel from the centre hump and welded in some patches:


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With the top taken care of it was time to start cutting away the rust from the sides and bottom - here you can see the Steel pipe and the rust to remove around it:


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After forming up a couple of patch panels, they were welded in and the flange required to attached the floor bent:


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Is it pretty? - not really, in fact not at all  :lol:

Was it worth the effort? - debatable... but very satisfying

Is it strong? - as a rock.

Have a nice evening everyone.

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This morning task was to make up some templates for the floor repair sections I will need. Four patch panels in total will be required. I could probably reduce this number by increasing the size of a couple of them (by joining them together), but then you can lose a bit of control when you come to weld them in place as they become more difficult to adjust/manipulate.

This is the hole to fill...

 

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And the cardboard templates prepared:

 

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I'm off on holiday for just under 2 weeks, so that's it from me for a while my friends.  :thumbup

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