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I240r build


ANDY ABBOTT
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Not posted here for a while so thought id share my latest project. I bought it a couple of weeks ago and have begun the strip down. It's had a fair few mods/upgrades The engine is a 2.4 with 96mm forged wiseco pistons, newly balanced crank, big valve head with uprated springs, ported, Kent op244 cam, Kent vernier pully, twin webber 45s on irmscher inlet manifolds and 4 branch exhaust manifold, facet fuel set up, uprated paddle clutch, full set of bilstein, rear disk conversion, quaife LSD, short shift set up, Polly bushed rear axle, alloy radiator, alloy oil cooler, fully roll caged, non sunroof skin fitted, remote boot release, i240 kit along with lots of other bits and bobs.

  Unfortunately the engine delovoped a knock so I removed the engine to investigate, once we got the engine out and separated it from the box I removed the clutch and found the flywheel bolts loose and one bolt had snapped. Now at this point I thought it was going to be a simple job of removing the broken flywheel bolt from the crank but I thought I May aswell strip down the full engine and give it a once over replace all gaskets, paint block etc... It's a good job I did as we then went on to find number 2 cylinder showing signs of water damage to the bore 😮  then send the cylinder head for testing and got the dreaded phone call a day later to say the head was cracked 😞 luckily I have a spare head but still a shame. I've now sent the block in to be bored and liners sunk in and it should hopefully return mid next week. Im also curious to see if anyone im the club knows the car.

Photo dump 👇

 

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17 minutes ago, IanMc said:

Any rust to deal with?

Nothing to serious but there's a number of previous repairs I'd like to tidy up. Swan necks look a little swollen so I'll investigate those while engine and crossmember are out. 

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Hi Andy, 

just want to check if you know about the "P"Bolt of the flywheel. That's "P" from "Passschraube" (German), one of those 6 bolts has got a "P" mark on it and is a bit different of design and also a bit thicker. It fits in only one hole of the flywheel. The function is to keep the flywheel on its place, so there is no play between the flywheel and the cranckshaft cause of the torque. When not used the flywheel can rip the bolts and saw the clutchhouse in pieces. 

Succes with the rebuild!

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On 30/04/2019 at 15:47, H-400 said:

Hi Andy, 

just want to check if you know about the "P"Bolt of the flywheel. That's "P" from "Passschraube" (German), one of those 6 bolts has got a "P" mark on it and is a bit different of design and also a bit thicker. It fits in only one hole of the flywheel. The function is to keep the flywheel on its place, so there is no play between the flywheel and the cranckshaft cause of the torque. When not used the flywheel can rip the bolts and saw the clutchhouse in pieces. 

Succes with the rebuild!

Thanks I do know about the p marked bolt. Unfortunately this is the one that's snapped in the crank due to being put in wrong location. I'm now in need of a new p bolt if anyone has a link to one that would be great. Cheers 

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That "P"bolt has got following partnr:  6 16 281 

                                                  GM partnr: 90299277

Is not the same as the other CIH's! 

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On 04/05/2019 at 17:08, H-400 said:

That "P"bolt has got following partnr:  6 16 281 

                                                  GM partnr: 90299277

Is not the same as the other CIH's! 

Thank for the info. Are they still available ? 

So just a quick update, the engine builders called me and said they are unable to repair the crack in the cylinder head. 😔 they said it's about 1 inch long and in an awkward location. Fortunately I do have a spare big valve head with big cam etc.. in but still pretty gutted about it. Also after they have further stripped down the engine they have found the timing cover and oil pump cover to be badly scored inside so I now also need to replace these. On top of this they have also discovered a few shells are scored and the crank will now also require a 're grind/polish 😐 seems as though the place that rebuilt this engine a few years ago hasn't done a very good job as when I bought the car I was informed it hadn't done anything since the rebuild. And ive recipts showing a rebore, new pistons, shells, rods, crank balance anf grind. Typical manta resto nothing ever straight forward 😂 

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Ah dreaded rust hole time, might have 5, you will find ten, usual story, Thats a shitter on the engine rebuild, would the chain have been marking the cases? Yeh recently avoided a rb25 rebuilt engine, it lasted a week, guy is livid. 

On a brighter note, nice wee project, would a 2.4 cih sort out your engine issues? Cost, hassle, 

Is it a nice spec regardless, and some interesting motors sitting in the background, commodore, monza and mk1 transit, and chance of more info on these before you get started,

Goodluck with project Andy,  have fun! 

 

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Yes mine is a 2.4 but had over size forged pistons etc...so block would still need to be bored out to accept them, However a spare 2.4 would be great, i have been looking and asking around but can not find one. The Monza in back ground is one I bought a while back and I've now sold it to a friend who as yet has not collected it 😀 the orange one is my rekord d coupe, super rare 1900 manual it's also for sale but needs restoring. The transit belongs to who I bought the the i240 off. I also have a commodore GSE with BMW 2.5 straight 6 engine and box In, now that's a fun toy I've been using it as my daily for the past couple of months. 😎

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22 hours ago, ®evo03 said:

Now thats a car, its the way to go, power and free tax! Makes a shitter of all the moderns running about paying a fortune for tax. Did you do this conversion yourself, more info, spec? What axle? 

Pm send, ta. 

Yes it's a great fun toy, I bought it as is. I've been using it as a daily for past few months I love it. It's running standard rear axle which I'm told is basically same as a 400 one with LSD. 

 

 

Started poking the battery trey today as there was obvious signs of filler. I found it to be made mainly of fibreglass and bog. 😂

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Think there should be a safety warning or a heldful hints guide in filler and fibreglass kits / IF YOUR GONNA BODGE A CAR, SAVE YOUR MONEY PAY A WELDER, FIBREGLASS & FILLER DOES NOT COUNT AS CRUMPLEZONES! 

well done! Cant beat a solid car.

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Today I removed the crusty chassis leg and swan neck on the passenger side. Revealing lots of old repairs, it was 5 skins deep it some places. 😂 Had to cut a section of floor out aswell, again due to poor repairs. I've now started to remake a new inner chassis section and I'm awaiting delivery of new swan neck covers and chassis rails. Once I've finished off the passenger side I'll then do the same to drivers side. 

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Passenger side inner made and fitted, jig fits.😀 I'm going to cut out and replace the inner further back to jacking point. I'll then move on to drivers side. And do the same, then a good clean up, rust treatment, zinc rich primer, paint and trim before final weld and outer skins go on.

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Nice work Andy, 

checked the partnumber of the "P" bolt and the number still excists in the data-base of Opel. Can not say if it is still in stock somewhere.

Got to check this at an Opel dealer. 

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