H-400 Posted July 2, 2023 Share Posted July 2, 2023 Just do it 👍. Thursday evening we take the GSI to the Pyrenees, as we always do. Back home there will be more than 3000km's on the car. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted July 2, 2023 Author Share Posted July 2, 2023 I’ll get some quotes for breakdown cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted July 2, 2023 Author Share Posted July 2, 2023 Breakdown cover sorted 🙂. I think I got a good deal with the AA - 12 months National Recovery to any UK mainland address for £75.00. 50% off. The deal ends tomorrow! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted July 3, 2023 Share Posted July 3, 2023 Great to hear the changes have worked, and we all love some Billy shocks 😁 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted July 29, 2023 Author Share Posted July 29, 2023 I don’t enjoy this any more - I’m taking a break! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulmanta Posted July 30, 2023 Share Posted July 30, 2023 Yeah, it looks horrible when its not neatly taped up. Shudder... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted July 31, 2023 Share Posted July 31, 2023 Definitely looks worse than it really is, but when you are confronted by such a spiders web, OMG it’s like Armageddon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted September 10, 2023 Author Share Posted September 10, 2023 After a short break I had another look at the Manta wiring. Everything is sorted except the temperature gauges Sketch 1 - Original gauge The first sketch is the standard original Manta gauge and factory wiring but with a new regulator. This works without issue but the gauge is very simplistic - blue for cold moving toward red when hot. The gauge always sits very near the hot end of the range. Sketch 2 - New gauge I purchased an additional gauge which displays the actual temperature in degrees centigrade. When wired as shown it displayed a realistic temperature. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Sketch 3 - Shared sensor wiring I thought I could connect both gauges to the same sensor and wired up the gauges as shown in sketch 3. Both gauges work but display the wrong temperatures. I believe the sensor measures resistance and wiring it up in this way messes that up? Sketch 4 - Switched sensor wiring Easy I thought - I'll put a switch in so I can swap between gauges when I'm concerned about any high temperatures. Wired in this way the original gauge seems to work and show a sensible reading (towards hot as before and likely to be correct) but the new additional gauge however continues to show dubious (low) readings. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The auto electrician who lives round the corner reckoned both of these wiring options should work but I would need diodes between each sensor and gauge. I’ve tried this as shown in sketches 5 & 6 but still can’t get both gauges to read the correct temperature. (He’s gone on holiday for two weeks so I can’t ask him!) Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Any ideas anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted September 10, 2023 Share Posted September 10, 2023 Depends on the internal circuit, but they will still pull down the signal a little, do you might need an additional resistor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted September 11, 2023 Share Posted September 11, 2023 with the original factory setup the guage should read near vertical ,maybee a touch nearer the hot side (the actual middle marking which is offset to the right )with a 92deg thermostat which i assume you will be using. my other cav with an 88deg reads vertical. mine are both running from the standard thermal voltage regulator which gives a pulsed(on/off)supply which isnt detectable on the guages due to them being thermal devices too so maybee the electronic regulator which gives a steady 10v output makes the factory guage read slightly higher ? . using 2 guages together from the same sender unit will definately mess up the circuit resistance and fitting a diode will not acheive anything except lower the readings slightly maybee . BUT i have found that different sender units can vary the reading slightly and also you could always bias the signal with an inline resistor to make the guage read lower or a parallel resistor to earth to make it read higher. with a carefull selection of resistors on both guages you might be able to get them each to read correct but probably only at a set temperature .the guages probably wouldnt be linear outside of "normal working "temp". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted October 7, 2023 Author Share Posted October 7, 2023 When the dash was out I took the opportunity to fix a few electrical niggles; Cabin light failure - fixed USB sockets that lit up when I switched off the ignition - fixed OBD socket - hidden up under dash passenger side Fuel pressure gauge - working Footwell courtesy lighting - installed Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted October 8, 2023 Author Share Posted October 8, 2023 I won’t be attending any more shows for a while due to rear axle top links tearing through the floor. There was a weird creaking noise on the way home and on inspection I discovered the damage. Luckily everything is still where it should be and I was never that happy with the top link brackets anyway. The welder that put them in did a bit of a bodge but I think I can do a better job myself - well, we’ll see if that’s the case in good time. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Does anyone have the specification for 400 type boxes for the long top links. I’m happy to make them myself but would prefer to buy them if anyone knows if they are available anywhere. Any details gratefully received 🤞🏼 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted October 8, 2023 Share Posted October 8, 2023 Hi Jonathan, if you use those top boxes you can not fit the rear seat anymore. I know your rear axle is a mix of commo and spring seats of a normal Manta. But as a "400" your diff nose can jump up while driving, so this can be together the reason with the bad welding this happened. Opel has got to know about this cause my "400" has got a bump stop above the nose of the diff: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Even the Gp 4 and Gp B had that bump stop: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted October 8, 2023 Author Share Posted October 8, 2023 The bump stop is a good idea as there is evidence that the differential universal joint has made contact with the transmission tunnel - very minor contact. The 400 top links are more than I want or need so I will make up a hybrid connection. Longer links than I have currently will help achieve a better instant centre and stronger boxes firmly anchored to the floor but not interfering too much with the rear seats. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted October 10, 2023 Share Posted October 10, 2023 I thought I might have the profile dimensions, but sadly I don’t think they ever got transferred from card to CAD 😬 But they was not hard to figure with out with the great pictures & measurements that was posted by Herman, I just used card to make 1:1 templates. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted October 10, 2023 Author Share Posted October 10, 2023 I can see that 400 sections will make the rear seats unusable and I think this is a step too far for my car and I definitely won’t be doing any rallies in it so I’m unlikely to ever need the extra travel. I need to do some calculations to check for sure, but I think 400 length top links mounted lower in the floor will give me an acceptable instant centre without spoiling rear seat comfort. What happens in a road going 400? They look like they have a normal rear seat. And what have you 400R chaps done - any suggestions or advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted October 10, 2023 Share Posted October 10, 2023 I made a topic about that: And yes, a road "400" has got a rear seat. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted October 11, 2023 Share Posted October 11, 2023 There was a guy on FB, who was making them. I did message him for a set last year and although he said ‘would take sone time’ I still not heard back yet. He estimated them at around €500 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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