Mike. Posted May 2, 2016 Author Share Posted May 2, 2016 (edited) Guaranteed by the end of my project I will have asked a thousand questions, I'm taking photos at every stage but I think putting it all back together may be more difficult especially the wiring and I'm hoping not to end up with a box of spares that I can't remember where they should go . I am allready seeing the benefit of joining the club . My weekends work was to de grease and paint the gear box, ignition coil and starter motor now they all have a fresh coat of black paint, a lot tidier than they were. Getrag 5 speed box in etch primer,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Top coat black,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited May 6, 2018 by Mike. Edited. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 You have done grand so far, not overly complicated cars, just some things are weird, the haynes manual helps alot, quite cheap too, but it has a few errors. Fuel lines are mixed up in manual. Early warning! Mike, it works both ways! How did you get that gearbox cleaned before painting? Super job! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike. Posted May 2, 2016 Author Share Posted May 2, 2016 I cleaned the worst of the oil and grease off with a wire brush attachment on a 4.5" grinder then gave it two coats with a de greaser, worked it into all the small squares and used a flat head screwdriver to clean out all the small squares where the grease had embedded into the corners washed it down and let it dry in the sun then overnight in the garage then etch primer then 3 coats of engine paint. I'm quite happy with the result, I could do with sourcing a new rubber gear box mount, any ideas? Can you buy them new or is there an equivalent from another Opel or Vauxhall? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 Mike, they may be available new, but you can make one! See below, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike. Posted May 3, 2016 Author Share Posted May 3, 2016 looks like making one would be feasible when you see your photo, I'll definitely be giving that a go. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 Forgot to add, edelschiniede supply manta bits, but it could be made for 1/4 of the price! BTW, Great description on gearbox clean, and respray. Keep these wee updates coming, as it builds up your thread, and gives others motivation, and the know how, great work so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RECARDO Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 Hi mike great work and advice within you project, it's been giving me some motivation to get onto mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealExile Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 8 hours ago, ®evo03 said: You have done grand so far, not overly complicated cars, just some things are weird, the haynes manual helps alot, quite cheap too, but it has a few errors. Fuel lines are mixed up in manual. Early warning! Mike, it works both ways! How did you get that gearbox cleaned before painting? Super job! Agreed, top job Fuel lines mixed up? phew thanks for the warning as I have that job coming up soon! my plan was to make a drawing of what I take off and how it goes back together which I hope works or I'll be on here asking all kinds of silly questions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike. Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 First real problem encountered tonight, all going good with the degreasing and painting of engine until my sump sprung a leak, it was rusty so I had to clean it up, Can I buy a new sump? or will I have to source a good used one? How available are they? Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaray Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike. Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 Thanks mantaray just contacted snowy and awaiting reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike. Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 Thanks snowy and mantaray replacement sump issue now resolved. Within five minutes of posting a problem other members chip in to help. The benefits of being in the club. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 30 minutes ago, Mike. said: Thanks snowy and mantaray replacement sump issue now resolved. Within five minutes of posting a problem other members chip in to help. The benefits of being in the club. Me selling you the sump has nothing to do with this club. I don't care if you're a member or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 On 5/12/2016 at 7:57 PM, Snowy said: Me selling you the sump has nothing to do with this club. I don't care if you're a member or not. I think that the point Mike is making Snowy, is if he wasn't in this club maybe he wouldn't have known there was someone called Snowy, so he is quite correct in what he is saying. there are benefits in being a member. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 6 minutes ago, Julian said: I think that the point Mike is making Snowy, is if he wasn't in this club maybe he wouldn't have known there was someone called Snowy, so he is quite correct in what he is saying. there are benefits in being a member. If only there was a dislike button. Julian I would just be selling these parts somewhere else.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 11 hours ago, Snowy said: If only there was a dislike button. Julian I would just be selling these parts somewhere else.... No one dislikes anybody Snowy, We are all one big happy family here!! unless you are talking about RUST cos we all dislike RUST 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike. Posted April 18, 2017 Author Share Posted April 18, 2017 (edited) It's been a year of long hours evenings and weekends to get my manta to this stage. I have now replaced the spare wheel well, both driver and passenger floorpans, both straight sections of chassis rails under the floorpans, both inner and outer swan necks, all four jacking points, both A pillar sections forward of the door hinges, washer bottle tray, battery tray and repaired behind both headlights plus various other small patches. I have replaced all the rubber bushes in the front subframe and refurbished it with top and bottom ball joints, track rod ends and new steering rack gators and a new coat of paint. The back subframe has been treated to a new coat of paint also. Next job now is both back wheel arches and both sills then that should see the welding completed, this I hope all going to plan will be approx June/July time. A few photos to let you see how she is sitting today. front subframe re bushed with a complete new rubber bush set source from a club member, painted and rebuilt,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. New floorpans, jacking points, swan necks and chassis rails fitted, all traces of the original factory stonechip removed with a twisted knot wire brush and Makita grinder,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Underside temporarally coated with zinc primer until I get her into the spray booth,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. New spare wheel well fitted, I wanted to keep original tow hook just for the look and keep it as close to standard as possible,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Floorpans welded from both sides, buffed flush and seam sealed,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Before seam sealing I checked for holes in the weld with a torch to see if I could see pinholes, missed sections or if I had went too far buffing the welded flush,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Looking stronger again,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Repaired battery tray area with new steel And fitted a vectra b battery tray,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Window washer bottle area repaired with new steel, all rust cut out and removed,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Both headlight areas in the inner wings repaired with new steel sections bent and formed to fit retaining original double seams,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. New A panel replacement sections forward of the door hinges ordered from Retropower and fitted, all rust cut out and removed,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Busy with the mig, note the rusty jig, I got a loan of this from another manta owner to keep the trailing arm bolt holes in the same place, couldn’t have done this job without this piece of kit,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited May 19, 2018 by Mike. Edited. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAZYDAVE Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 Superb Work!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike. Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 (edited) Both passenger and drivers sides now with new rear arches and sills, drivers door with new lower door skin. Bonnet, roof, rear quarters and front lower valance panels all bare metal and treated with red lead, doors, boot lid and front wings still require the paint to be removed, a job still to do. Rear arches and sills away to get lead loading to bodywork. My skills and talents have been exhausted, I tried fitting a rear arch then admitted defeat, I only tried to fit the arch lip, cutting up a whole replacement rear arch section for a small part.....before I did any lasting damage to the rear quarters, I booked her into the bodyshop for this work, Lower door skin and door frame fitted on drivers door,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. New sills fitted,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Klockerholm rear arches and sills were used,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. My plan is to bare metal the full car and all other panels, note the now visible brazed joint on the A pillar where the roof skin joint is made, same on the C pillar,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited May 19, 2018 by Mike. Edited 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike. Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 (edited) Another weekends work,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Rust free both sides, ready to be delivered to the bodyshop for prep and red lead,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. All the old paint and filler over the years is now removed, the whole car, shell and panels have been bared to the steel and red leaded, a time consuming and at times an awquard job but at least I know what condition the metal is in before I paint it. There seems to have been a high build primer on the car from previous restoration attempts which has been hiding some issues, This has exposed some other areas that need attention but nothing too major. The prep stage of the shell, chassis, panels seems to be taking forever, but at least Im seeing some progress each week. It’s amazing how a few hours in the evenings and weekends all add up. I’ve had to weld on some tabs and pins for brake and fuel lines that were lost when the new floorpans were fitted. I’m hoping I haven’t missed anything. Bodyshop removing the paint from back valence and roof, the shell is still with them,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Four slot nosecone back to bare metal exposing areas above lights needing work,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I have the job of removing all paint from the doors, wings, bonnet and boot, every Monday morning I take through what Panels I have worked on and prepared, the body shop then puts them into red lead, the two front wings, again another weekends work removing the paint on the outside and inside, the inside being more awkward,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Bodyshop removing all traces of my zink primer and put her into red lead, they didn’t trust me when I said she was rust free now probably they just wanted to be sure, Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The underside was completely stripped back to bare metal and given a protective coat of red lead, this process was repeated on the full shell and all panels,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited September 25, 2018 by Mike. Edited. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blitzi Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 thats looking superb bud keep the good work up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monaco Blue Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 24 minutes ago, blitzi said: thats looking superb bud keep the good work up Agreed! Looking good! What colour is it going to be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike. Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 (edited) Paint code on vin plate 452 polar white. Got to keep her as standard as possible, I like the stock look with the quad lights as the only change. i took the opportunity while getting the new sills and rear arches done to add box section to both sides to strengthen and tie in the seatbelt mounting point and front jacking point for peace of mind. my bodyshop advised me to do this when I was at this stage, a perfect opportunity,Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited April 26, 2018 by Mike. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zublet Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 Lovely work there Mike, very much an inspiration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MANTAMAN Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 That is some in depth work you've done there, that shell is going to be better than when it left Opels, not just figuratively but litterally. Top Work ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.