Julian Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 9 hours ago, IanMc said: Thanks Julian, now I understand. My wording was not very good, apologies. What I actually did was to unbolt the earth strap at the block end only (as the other end would not budge), then cleaned it thoroughly and replaced it. As I couldn’t get the other end off I used the jump lead to take the earth to another part of the chassis. Is what I did OK? YEP!! That makes sense!! Now get that compression test done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted December 13, 2017 Author Share Posted December 13, 2017 Hopefully tonight matey.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted December 13, 2017 Author Share Posted December 13, 2017 (edited) I walk to work and back (a couple of miles each way), which gives me plenty of thinking time... So I got to thinking about things and wondered if the timing was out somehow - basically as I refuse to believe that I had messed up the valve regrinding etc etc - but didnt rule out ring wear or me putting stuff back together wrong I then thought that on the CIH engines there are basically two pairs of pistons doing there thing - 1 & 4 and 2 & 3 Thinking that upon reassembly that 1 & 4 were TDC, I got to thinking that maybe 4 was at TDC instead of 1 when I timed it up to the mark on the timing case. So... my tiny brain thought that what if I changed the firing order (as the Bosch dizzy was orientated correctly to the manual), from 1, 3, 4, 2 to 4, 2, 1, 3 - just by moving the leads around of course. 1) Turned the key, it turned over fine, but didn't fire. 2) As I still have the tank 'isolated' as a potential problem (containing gummed up fuel etc), I decided to pour a capful of fuel straight down the carb and try again. And....... IT FIRED UP!!! So great news obviously, but what do I need to do to solve this bodge lol - is it a case of disconnecting the cam pulley wheel, turning the crank 360 degrees and pushes it back on again. Sorry if this is way off, but the current excitement has scrambled my brain Edited December 13, 2017 by IanMc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shug Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 Sounds more like your distributor is 180 degrees out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted December 13, 2017 Author Share Posted December 13, 2017 4 minutes ago, Shug said: Sounds more like your distributor is 180 degrees out. Is that possible though Shug, when the vacuum advance is in the correct position according to my manual? Still buzzing lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickfrad Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 The outer casing of the distributor stays in the same place. Unbolt it, lift it up turn the rotor arm and shaft 180 drop dizzy back in. Should sort it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 I just heard a strange noise coming in from the East, could that be your engine firing up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted December 13, 2017 Author Share Posted December 13, 2017 1 minute ago, Julian said: I just heard a strange noise coming in from the East, could that be your engine firing up? Lol, yes mate!! The old girl lives! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monaco Blue Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 Well done, you must be chuffed & relieved to put it mildly! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted December 13, 2017 Author Share Posted December 13, 2017 9 minutes ago, Monaco Blue said: Well done, you must be chuffed & relieved to put it mildly! Yes Sir, can’t stop smiling at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 You got to admit it. This club is worth every penny. Nice Christmas present Ian. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted December 13, 2017 Author Share Posted December 13, 2017 10 minutes ago, Julian said: You got to admit it. This club is worth every penny. Nice Christmas present Ian. Absolutely Julian, so glad I came back. Tonight has inspired me to push on again, I feel as if a significant milestone has been reached. Hopefully over the weekend I can get the car running off the original fuel tank again and see if the auto box will shift through the gears - not on the road of course, but by holding the rear in the air on stands. That would also be another milestone.... Thanks to you and the other lads for your help and support so far! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAZYDAVE Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 Ah bless I do like a happy ending to a frustrating problem 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted December 14, 2017 Share Posted December 14, 2017 10 hours ago, IanMc said: Absolutely Julian, so glad I came back. Tonight has inspired me to push on again, I feel as if a significant milestone has been reached. Hopefully over the weekend I can get the car running off the original fuel tank again and see if the auto box will shift through the gears - not on the road of course, but by holding the rear in the air on stands. That would also be another milestone.... Thanks to you and the other lads for your help and support so far! Take care if you do run through the gears like that, be careful you don't put it in PARK if the wheels are still spinning or you will snap the PARKING PAWL in the gearbox, same applies, as you very likely know, if you select "P" if the car is rolling to a stop. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted December 14, 2017 Author Share Posted December 14, 2017 2 hours ago, Julian said: Take care if you do run through the gears like that, be careful you don't put it in PARK if the wheels are still spinning or you will snap the PARKING PAWL in the gearbox, same applies, as you very likely know, if you select "P" if the car is rolling to a stop. Yes I did realise that, but sincere thanks for mentioning that anyway - much appreciated. Still buzzing this morning, sad isn't it?lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted December 14, 2017 Author Share Posted December 14, 2017 (edited) I like to try to do a little something every day to keep the project creeping forward. This was this evenings little job, obviously they will need a coat or two of lacquer, but they look OK really. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited December 14, 2017 by IanMc 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted December 16, 2017 Author Share Posted December 16, 2017 (edited) Just in case you thought that I had been slacking yesterday and failed in my attempt to do just at least one thing a day: I re-painted the wipers arms. Friday night is archery night, so time at home is very limited. Saturday however is a totally different story Edited December 16, 2017 by IanMc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 Archery? Cavalier? You are sure your location is Essex, not Nottingham? (Sorry Ian, just having fun, but yet the picture on your profile is explained) Read your engine is running, great news! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted December 16, 2017 Author Share Posted December 16, 2017 2 hours ago, H-400 said: Archery? Cavalier? You are sure your location is Essex, not Nottingham? (Sorry Ian, just having fun, but yet the picture on your profile is explained) Read your engine is running, great news! Ha, ha - yes indeed. I kind of stumbled into Archery whilst on holiday about two years ago, then just found I loved it and was also half decent at it. Today’s update: - new set of Bosch plugs fitted, to reward the old girl for now starting lol. So now the whole ignition system is new, except the original harness wiring. - removed the fuel pump again and pulled the distributor out. - turned the engine to get No. 1 cylinder at TDC then refitted the dizzy and fuel pump. - refitted the leads. The car now fires in the correct order with everything assembled to the book Next I removed my temporary fuel supply and installed an in-line fuel filter to the pump. Put a gallon of fuel in the cars tank and prayed... the car started and ran, so another milestone has been reached - the car will start and run from its own tank. At this point I decided to see if it would move... Started the car, selected R gave it a few revs and it tried to move, but the rear of the car raised a bit, indicating the brakes were tight or seized. Selected D instead and it went forward a couple of inches before stalling - again assumed the rear brakes were holding it back. So next task is to have a quick look at the brakes to see if there is anything obviously seized or out of adjustment. So good day, with some promising signs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaray Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 Chances are it will be the rear cylinder pistons are stuck, Dismantle the rear shoes and remove the brake cylinder from the backing plate. If you now remove the rubber boots from both ends the pistons can be pushed out. Clean everything up and reassemble, assuming the seals are good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted December 17, 2017 Author Share Posted December 17, 2017 (edited) 11 hours ago, mantaray said: Chances are it will be the rear cylinder pistons are stuck, Dismantle the rear shoes and remove the brake cylinder from the backing plate. If you now remove the rubber boots from both ends the pistons can be pushed out. Clean everything up and reassemble, assuming the seals are good. Thanks for the reply mantaray, much appreciated. I have actually been out there this morning, very early start - couldnt sleep lol. The passenger side brakes (the ones that I could easily get to) have now both been looked at. Front caliper: - not one of the two types mentioned in my Haynes manual (ATE or Girling), or that I remember from any of my 3 previous Mk1 Cavaliers... It is one of the newer sliding type. This caliper is held on the original Cavalier hub assembly by two cap head (10 m hex) screws inside small housings that have round push on weather covers. I got the covers off ok, but cant shift the cap heads at the moment, so have left them to soak. - as said, the piston is VERY difficult to move even with the bleed nipple out and flexi hose removed. I managed to move it back about 2-3 mm I guss using a long pry bar. I will have to post a photo of it when I get back underneath to see if anyone can identify what it/they are. Thankfully I managed to get the pads out, so the wheel now rotates. However the required caliper overhaul will be done later. The flexi line is clamped so I can at least still use the rears and the handbrake. Rear drum assembly: - one adjuster seized solid, but managed to free the other off enough to get the drum off. - The cylinder looks fine, no sign of leaks at all. - the shoes are in good condition. - handbrake mechanism is nice and free. - stripped everything down to free of the seized adjuster - that needed attention from Billy blowtorch, but is now fine. - everything reassembled and painted the drum outer surfaces with Hammerite (wheel to go back on once that is dry. Then I need to try to squeeze down the drivers side somehow to do the same with the other two brakes. I fear that the front caliper will be seized solid like the passenger side as the car could not be pushed after the work described above. This certainly explains the incredible effort it took me and my Son to get the car in the garage last month... Happy days, were still moving forward - well actually not - oh, you know what I mean. Cheers all, have a good day. Edited December 17, 2017 by IanMc 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted December 17, 2017 Share Posted December 17, 2017 The later cars all have the caliper design like yours.its basically a single piston caliper that floats on sliding sleeves in the area where the mounting bolts are.basically a rubbish design in my opinion and worth changing to the earlier twin piston fixed type .if you can free up the piston and also get the sliding sleeves free it will work ok for a while.o haul kits are available that include new sleeves and caps if you so wish to keep this style on.mine are the earlier twin piston type and much better in my opinion. There are also some circa 80/81 cars with an ate sliding caliper single piston type that doesnt have the sleeves and doesnt seize up but they are rarer to find.this type is a direct swap in relation to flexi hose and pads . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted December 17, 2017 Author Share Posted December 17, 2017 53 minutes ago, cam.in.head said: The later cars all have the caliper design like yours.its basically a single piston caliper that floats on sliding sleeves in the area where the mounting bolts are.basically a rubbish design in my opinion and worth changing to the earlier twin piston fixed type .if you can free up the piston and also get the sliding sleeves free it will work ok for a while.o haul kits are available that include new sleeves and caps if you so wish to keep this style on.mine are the earlier twin piston type and much better in my opinion. There are also some circa 80/81 cars with an ate sliding caliper single piston type that doesnt have the sleeves and doesnt seize up but they are rarer to find.this type is a direct swap in relation to flexi hose and pads . Hi CIH, As always, you provide great information - sincere thanks for that. I intend to keep the car as it is - if I can... so I will persevere for now - just need to get the damn things off lol Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted December 17, 2017 Author Share Posted December 17, 2017 Even if the rest of this project falls flat on its face, at least I will have some badges to keep and remember her by The '2000' badge was/is quite badly pitted after the surface corrosion was cleaned off, but I decided to leave it like that rather than fill it as it is part of the history of the car - plus I didn't know how to fix it lol I think they look OK for a home bodge job really. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted December 17, 2017 Author Share Posted December 17, 2017 4 hours ago, cam.in.head said: The later cars all have the caliper design like yours.its basically a single piston caliper that floats on sliding sleeves in the area where the mounting bolts are.basically a rubbish design in my opinion and worth changing to the earlier twin piston fixed type .if you can free up the piston and also get the sliding sleeves free it will work ok for a while.o haul kits are available that include new sleeves and caps if you so wish to keep this style on.mine are the earlier twin piston type and much better in my opinion. There are also some circa 80/81 cars with an ate sliding caliper single piston type that doesnt have the sleeves and doesnt seize up but they are rarer to find.this type is a direct swap in relation to flexi hose and pads . CIH, Are you able to provide me with a link to one of the overhaul kits you mentioned please? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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