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Vauxhall Cavalier mk1


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12 minutes ago, 1200bandit said:

I am a web member at this time as l don’t have a manta just yet

but l am seriously looking for one now 

not going to hang on until l move house (as l don’t  know when that’s going to happen) 

What you looking for Wayne?

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@ Chris (cam.in.head): Your way of adjusting the hyd. tappets is as good as mine, and if you don't have the right camcover it is indeed a dirty job if you do it my way. I am used to do it by the book, probably cause I'v served as a mecanical for 38 years in the army. I worked on tanks etc. that costs 25 million Euro's each so we had a responsability to the taxpayer to keep those vehicles running as technical manuals say. Second reason: When a doctor in the OR cuts wrong he is responsible for one life, when I repair an armoured armed personnal carrier and that vehicle breaks down on a mission in Hesbollah erea (been there) I am resposible of the death of 13 lives.  Worked together with the US army and they use the same rules as on planes...

If I offended you cause of my post to Paul I want to apologise, 

Grts, Herman

 

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Thanks again Chris, sorted out the oil pressure gauge and light today, I followed the wiring from the sender, it was laid alongside the sump resting on the front cross member, connected to....nothing!        I pulled it carefully up and plugged it into the wiring loom plug by the heater motor.     Result, gauge and light work perfectly!        Can't think why it'd be unplugged but it has been for quite a bit going off the muck in the plug I had to clean out.

On 27/12/2020 at 22:45, Paul Lickorish said:

Thank you sir!

Part on it's way, should be here on Monday. 

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excellent. who knows why but it doesnt matter. 

all the best. 

ps at least we know you are a proper car nut !.   working on them in this weather proves it.!

i dont know about where you are but its just snowed up here and is b******* cold today !

15 hours ago, H-400 said:

 

If I offended you cause of my post to Paul I want to apologise, 

Grts, Herman

 

hey if that message was intended for me then    no    absolutely no offence at all. i was thinking the opposite in fact . 

you had just described a way of doing it ( the official gm way ) so you are totally 100%correct. 

i just described my way which has always worked for me .

people like you with your experience and knowledge are what keep clubs like this going .

all the very best for the new year to you 

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20 hours ago, Paul Lickorish said:

Yes I fully intend to join in January,  can someone let me know the details please. 

Can anyone advise how to choose web membership, when i sign in and go to join section, it only gives me the option of full membership, which is of no benefit, just want web member, but cant choose this option, as it only has full membership, and pay now? 

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On 28/12/2020 at 23:03, Paul Lickorish said:

Thanks again Chris, sorted out the oil pressure gauge and light today, I followed the wiring from the sender, it was laid alongside the sump resting on the front cross member, connected to....nothing!        I pulled it carefully up and plugged it into the wiring loom plug by the heater motor.     Result, gauge and light work perfectly!        Can't think why it'd be unplugged but it has been for quite a bit going off the muck in the plug I had to clean out.

Part on it's way, should be here on Monday. 

looking back at the ebay pictures yes you can see the plug just hanging there unconnected! 

 also noticed the small bore breather pipe looks to be missing .from rocker cover - to- small stub below carb !

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On 29/12/2020 at 10:14, ®evo03 said:

Can anyone advise how to choose web membership, when i sign in and go to join section, it only gives me the option of full membership, which is of no benefit, just want web member, but cant choose this option, as it only has full membership, and pay now? 

Try that mate

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15 minutes ago, ®evo03 said:

Cant see, if i figure out, i will see it, until then! 

Sorry mate.

If you keep getting error 404 when trying to renew club membership, log in again with "remember me" box ticked.

otherwise you might need admin help as I seem to remember someone else having the same problem.

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Hello again folks, and a happy new year to you all! 

I've taken all of the tappets out and I'm soaking them in Petrol, I've dismantled the first 4 down to the ball bearing and tiny second spring and left them to soak,  plan on doing the second 4 tomorrow or Sunday.  I've got the oil raising tube from Ebay on the way as you've reccomended.    A question I've thought of is when I reassemble the tappets do I prefill them with new oil? There was some oil inside them when I took them apart. Also one of the threaded posts that go through the rocker has lost some of its thread, most of the self locking nuts came away easily but one was very tight, there wasn't any consistency on the tightness of them. Theres a series of videos by an American chap on YouTube,  he goes through the ins and outs of rebuilding these engines, upon resembling he put a dent in the top half of the nut using a hammer and chisel. 

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26 minutes ago, Paul Lickorish said:

Hello again folks, and a happy new year to you all! 

I've taken all of the tappets out and I'm soaking them in Petrol, I've dismantled the first 4 down to the ball bearing and tiny second spring and left them to soak,  plan on doing the second 4 tomorrow or Sunday.  I've got the oil raising tube from Ebay on the way as you've reccomended.    A question I've thought of is when I reassemble the tappets do I prefill them with new oil? There was some oil inside them when I took them apart. Also one of the threaded posts that go through the rocker has lost some of its thread, most of the self locking nuts came away easily but one was very tight, there wasn't any consistency on the tightness of them. Theres a series of videos by an American chap on YouTube,  he goes through the ins and outs of rebuilding these engines, upon resembling he put a dent in the top half of the nut using a hammer and chisel. 

Yes you need to oil them prior to use. Leaving in warmish engine oil over night, and slight pump to get the last air out.

 some try to pump them to fill, if they go solid with thus method then you will need to reset them again.

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ive always just primed them by putting them in some oil and pumping them for a bit, they will fill once on the engine .

not tried the warm oil method ,sounds a good idea thou. 

just make sure they are assembled with their own parts and refit the to the valve they came from.if not they will work ok but may never go as quiet as they could.these engines are excellent but never the quietest in terms of valve and chain noise .

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On 30/12/2020 at 10:32, cam.in.head said:

looking back at the ebay pictures yes you can see the plug just hanging there unconnected! 

 also noticed the small bore breather pipe looks to be missing .from rocker cover - to- small stub below carb !

Yes mate, the tube is missing, the previous owner put a new twin choke Weber on two years ago, I may need to incorporate the smaller tube with the larger one.

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Thanks Chris, I've only just seen your last post, I'll have a look.                                        I have replaced the clean tappets back in and tightened down the nuts, on starting the engine I was disappointed with the level of  clatter, I let the engine warm up a bit then my neighbour came round for ten minutes, after restarting the engine I was amazed that very quickly one by one the tappets all went quiet, obviously by now filled with oil.                                                    One more question though please, once the valve is closed, is it ok that theres a little bit of movement on the rocker arm?      I'm just concerned I've over tightened the nuts. Thanks Paul. 

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so long as they are one turn down ( approx) then all will be fine . the tappet will be in its adjustment range if you are a half turn either way .thats why i never understood or use the hot method. 

yes they are frightenly noisy arnt they at first ! but soon goes quiet as you found out. 

yes there will be some movement after switching off for a while as the tappet will empty itself under valve spring pressure. all the valves that are closed will do this and is the way i check that they are working correctly. obviously if the bores are worn they will empty much quicker than a new one and may click again on starting but should go quiet again. 

 

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The reason why they recommend them doing running us so that the engine will start. There is a small chance that the follower will hydraulic lock and open the valve slightly off cam, causing issues starting.

Starting with them rattling means they won't do this and even though the valve timing might be off, it would still start up. Along those lines 

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I'd just like to thank all of you good people for your help, I got the tappets nicely sorted out this morning, the oil raiser has been fitted, I  thought I'd better check the ignition timing while I was at it too.   A good job I did really as it was 1 inch past the timing mark ( retarded) I'm surprised it ran at all. Once set up correctly and tick over was reduced, I went for a test drive. I was amazed by the transformation! Effortless power, probably 30% up on before, an almost silent tick over, the clatter was gone! And a huge smile across my face! What great cars these truly are. Practical classics summed  them up with their road test a few years ago,  they tested the Cavalier 2000 GLS ( Vauxhalls own) against the mk2 and mk3 front wheel drive models saying that you could use one every day and wish for nothing more. Next  job tomorrow is the tracking as in straight ahead driving the steering wheel is pointing left by 2 inches.    Thanks again guys!

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  • 1 month later...

Why have the second breather tube (going unfiltered, directly into the inlet manifold) at all? I always disconnect them as they gum up the carb and heats up the intake fuel/air mix, and venting to atmosphere isn't an MOT fail, just a regulatory thing for manufacture. Isn't the fatter rear breather enough? They both come from the same turret on the rocker cover.

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