Irmscher Man Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Blimey - I've never seen a Clutch Plate go like that before. I've certainly taken a few out that were well down to the metal but not breaking up. Good job you had the cover plate off. Its good to see that the hard work is paying off now Chris - all those years of not having a Manta at shows and now you have one to be proud of again. All the little shake down jobs that you have been doing should mean that you have one well sorted A series for the summer. Chuffed for you mate. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaray Posted March 17, 2018 Author Share Posted March 17, 2018 Gearbox back from the builders. Unfortunately, my box was not worth rebuilding, so had to find a replacement and has luck would have it Carl (Mr Carlos) had one for sale. So after a 260-mile round trip, and £250 lighter, the replacement box was dropped off at the builders and I hoped it would all be OK. As Carl had believed all was good with the gears, so new bearing and seals have been fitted and it's good to go. Rebuild cost was £330 which I don't think is too bad, but when you add the replacement box I'm up to £580 which is a bit more than I had budgeted for, but hey-ho that's life. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 That is a hart chunk of money, but I guess you basically have a near enough new gearbox. Now you must stop doing tecso car park doughnuts and burnouts! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaray Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 Engine and box back in, now to reconnect everything. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 Very, very nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 That v6 sits pretty low in a A series. Perfect position, how do you rate it, what kinda power, do you run a modified axle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaray Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 Front cross member is modified to get engine sitting low. The engine is standard except for: Lightened flywheel G cams from 3.0 V6 1mm enlarged throttle intake Custom manifolds Was putting out 215BHP last time she was on the rollers. R25 gearbox from Carlton , was running a 1.8 manta box but she eat 3 of them, 4HA axle with Jag LSD. changed from std axle as it was a cheap way to change the diff ratios and fit LSD As for how I rate it, Love it to bits. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaray Posted March 29, 2018 Author Share Posted March 29, 2018 Haven't had much spare time over the last couple of weeks, and with last weekend being taken up with the Classics show at the NEC, I have managed to spend today in the garage. The Manta is now all back together and ready for a test run, was hoping to do it today but it started pissing down so that put pay to that idea. Still, need to swop the centre intake over when I get my modified one all painted up but that's not a big job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaray Posted May 1, 2018 Author Share Posted May 1, 2018 Good news, gearbox all sorted no more whining.. Bad news, the car is off road again. Used the Manta on Sunday to go to the AGM, and found I have a big oil leak. So once again the engine is in bits. Problem is I'm not sure where the leak is, it's dripping at the back and at the front but can't make out if it's just one leak or two. It's not the cam cover gaskets which the V6 is prone to leaking, So I'll clean it all down and then turn her over on the key and see if I can see it with all the injector gubbins removed. Also, need to replace the front pads and clean the discs as they are covered in oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapierdave Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 When my mate had a leak on his V6 Omega it turned out it was the oil cooler situated at the top of the engine in between the cam covers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 6 hours ago, Rapierdave said: When my mate had a leak on his V6 Omega it turned out it was the oil cooler situated at the top of the engine in between the cam covers. I will second that as I is a very common problem. I changed the part on mine when I did the cambelt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaray Posted May 2, 2018 Author Share Posted May 2, 2018 Quite correct both of you. Was the washers on the oil union leaking. However, when I tried to remove the coolant bridge both banjo bolts shired. So after a lot of swaring, I finally manage to drill them both out and fit helicoils. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaray Posted May 3, 2018 Author Share Posted May 3, 2018 Hopefully, I've been lucky. Bolted the coolant bridge back in place and turned the engine over on the starter for a while, no oil or water leak. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Have not had the engine running yet, as I needed to get my modified centre intake painted, I could fit the std. intake back on, but that would only mean that I would have to strip it all down again at a later date. So with the engine back together as much as I can at the moment, I turned my attention to getting the intake painted. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. While I had paint mixed, I made up a shield to go behind the gill to protect the washer pump and fan relay from rain and painted that too. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaray Posted May 6, 2018 Author Share Posted May 6, 2018 Got the car all back together on Friday afternoon and went to start her up, engine turned over but would not fire the fuel pump was not kicking in. Knew it was something simple, but for the life of me, I couldn't find the fault. Anyway, after 11 hours of head scratching, I finally traced it to the crank knock sensor plug, not being pushed home. With her now running I got up to temp and checked for oil or water leaks and all looks fine. Now I also needed to strip and clean the front brakes as they were covered in oil and then give the car a good clean ready for The Kit car show today. Finally finished at 11 pm last night. Drove great all day with no leaks, until I get home and she is pissing water out from the lower rad hose, but at least that is an easy fix. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 8 hours ago, mantaray said: Got the car all back together on Friday afternoon and went to start her up, engine turned over but would not fire the fuel pump was not kicking in. Knew it was something simple, but for the life of me, I couldn't find the fault. Anyway, after 11 hours of head scratching, I finally traced it to the crank knock sensor plug, not being pushed home. With her now running I got up to temp and checked for oil or water leaks and all looks fine. Now I also needed to strip and clean the front brakes as they were covered in oil and then give the car a good clean ready for The Kit car show today. Finally finished at 11 pm last night. Drove great all day with no leaks, until I get home and she is pissing water out from the lower rad hose, but at least that is an easy fix. If it was easy it wouldn't be fun......😐 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaray Posted May 19, 2018 Author Share Posted May 19, 2018 Well the shakedown saga continues, seems that every time I take the Manta out something new happens. Sorted the water leak, but noticed the aux. belt was about to say goodbuy, so that has been changed as well, and then took her out to a small meet up in Banbury. Once again ran great until I was nearly home and then as I went to change gear the selector was like a bowl of soup, flopping all over the place. Got her home to find that the stick support bracket bolts had come loose, so this time they have been put in with thread loc. Then last night I took her down to the club pub meet and dropped in to see a friend on the way home, left to come home about 1 am and all was going well until I pulled off the Warwick bypass, as I approached the T junction at the top of the slip road, I hit the brakes hard to test them and she pulled to the left and locked up a wheel, no real problem but was intrigued as to which wheel was locking up. So when I got to the next straight bit of road I took her up to about 40 and hit the brakes hard again, Once again she pulled hard to the left and locked up the F/Ns wheel, however this time there was also a bang and the feeling of locked brakes. Luckily there was field entry just by me so I got the car off the road and got out to see what was going on only to find that the NS track rod had snapped. OH SHIT!! So I'm stuck on the side of the road at 1.30 am, with no one to phone, wondering how I'm going to get the car home. After a bit of head scratching I had an idea, Could I tie rap it together, I know the tracking would be completely messed up but as I was only about 3 miles from home it might just work. So with the track rod and the wheel hub tie raped together, I generally managed to drive her home. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. It was the drop spacer that had snapped, so I need to rethink them and come up with something stronger. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 19, 2018 Share Posted May 19, 2018 Wow, that’s some tale to tell. Glad you got home ok and well done on the temporary fix! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 And was there something recently, they are gonna ban cable ties, plastic ban!, great temp fix, interested in how you address the rethink, any ideas yet! Maybe machined out of harder material? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monaco Blue Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 A very clever temporary fix. More so given the time of day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rutthenut Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 On 19/05/2018 at 19:30, mantaray said: So with the track rod and the wheel hub tie raped together, I generally managed to drive her home. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. It was the drop spacer that had snapped, so I need to rethink them and come up with something stronger. Have seen some steering arm changes to deal with bump steer that use a rose joint instead of a track rod end, which would still need some from of drop link to it but could be simpler if steering arm drilled out and no longer using a taper. If that makes any sense at all. Thing being, mods I've seen are for smaller changes in geometry whereas I know you need to allow for a greater change in rack height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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