Julian Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 (edited) Nice one Ian. Looking back over your PROJECT I was thinking what do people like my son in law for egsample, know about cars, he passed his driving testa year ago, but phoned me up a couple of weeks back to ask me if he must take the car, ( a kia) to a garage to clean the soot that was inside the rear of the tail pipe!!! and a better one was can he use the same stuff to clean the car's windows as his wife uses to clean the kitchen window? I'm convinced that if " DAD'S ARMY" was brought back he'd make a brilliant PIKE!! and then I readwhat people like you are doing, I know what it's like I practically rebuilt a couple of Morris 1,000 travelers, even the complete woodwork, also a PS ROVER that was rotten, so I can appretiate what you are doing, and only wish I could still do it all over again. You will win in the end Mate.You are in the right club to help you. Edited April 30, 2018 by Julian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted April 30, 2018 Author Share Posted April 30, 2018 Thanks Julian, those words are great motivation to me. All the best matey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 Thats one serious looking rostyle, better than new! Also great job on the exhaust, have you considered exhaust wrap, it is available, whiteish, and blackish!, if its on from word go, it will smoke a little, but will not burn off or disintegrate. You only need to wrap to joint, or first silencer, would make a very tidy setup, and it isnt very expensive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted April 30, 2018 Author Share Posted April 30, 2018 Evening evo, the idea of the wrapping is interesting. Am I right in thinking that the idea is that it helps retain the heat, therefore ensuring that the exhaust gases do not slow down as much on exit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 Protects the downpipes and stops it looking rusty after a week once the paint burns off, quite easy to do, just make sure it super tight when fitting. Not sure if you are 1.9 or 2.0, but would you notice the difference in fast exiting exhaust gasses. Im wrapping mine, ive a 81 2.0 car will be super low, so might get a oval ss exhaust made! Or have a set of twin 40s, just need to find a 4 branch, and a inlet manifold, but might leave this to evolution 2! Regardless, it will be wrapped for aesthetics. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 1, 2018 Author Share Posted May 1, 2018 1 hour ago, ®evo03 said: Protects the downpipes and stops it looking rusty after a week once the paint burns off, quite easy to do, just make sure it super tight when fitting. Not sure if you are 1.9 or 2.0, but would you notice the difference in fast exiting exhaust gasses. Im wrapping mine, ive a 81 2.0 car will be super low, so might get a oval ss exhaust made! Or have a set of twin 40s, just need to find a 4 branch, and a inlet manifold, but might leave this to evolution 2! Regardless, it will be wrapped for aesthetics. Got it, thanks evo - good luck with your project too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 2, 2018 Author Share Posted May 2, 2018 Tiny update tonight: 1) Disconnected the alternator and removed the battery in preparation for the weekends cutting and welding. 2) Double checked the fit for the new (to me) exhaust downpipe - all good. 3) While I was under the car I took the opportunity to check the floor in the area of the exhaust run - again, it all looked OK. This means that I can apply some fresh Waxoyl under-seal before fitting the exhaust. Small steps, but they are all forward at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moodoo Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 Hi, I've been following your thread with interest, fair play to you for taking the time to detail it all here. It's great to see the reality of a resto, as opposed to the '...and 7 years later it looked like this...' approach! Will be particularly interested to see how the welding goes, I have an A-series project that I will have to tackle some year, but apart from a beginners course, I haven't done any before, so it'll be a step into the unknown. Good luck with yours, keep the updates coming! Fin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 3, 2018 Author Share Posted May 3, 2018 8 hours ago, moodoo said: Hi, I've been following your thread with interest, fair play to you for taking the time to detail it all here. It's great to see the reality of a resto, as opposed to the '...and 7 years later it looked like this...' approach! Will be particularly interested to see how the welding goes, I have an A-series project that I will have to tackle some year, but apart from a beginners course, I haven't done any before, so it'll be a step into the unknown. Good luck with yours, keep the updates coming! Fin Cheers matey, I too will be stepping into the unknown with the welding and fabrication - never done much of either before. Oh well, whats the worst that can happen?! Good luck with the A! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 20 hours ago, moodoo said: Hi, I've been following your thread with interest, fair play to you for taking the time to detail it all here. It's great to see the reality of a resto, as opposed to the '...and 7 years later it looked like this...' approach! Will be particularly interested to see how the welding goes, I have an A-series project that I will have to tackle some year, but apart from a beginners course, I haven't done any before, so it'll be a step into the unknown. Good luck with yours, keep the updates coming! Fin Yeh, beats that social media bullyshit, with no content and nothing to back it up, always thought forums where better, as most know a bit mote than a like button! Now if the omoc payed us for making a project thread! Ah hem! great thread Ian, project and work in progress! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 3, 2018 Author Share Posted May 3, 2018 A lovely job this evening - under sealing.... how pleasant that was. I wore overalls, gloves, a balaclava and goggles and still managed to get plenty on me Anyway, the good news is that 90% of the under side of the car is now coated, the remaining 10% is around the areas that need welding. This means that in a day or two once it is dry, I can fit up the exhaust system without worrying about trying to work around that or take it off again. Happy days. 1 hour ago, ®evo03 said: Yeh, beats that social media bullyshit, with no content and nothing to back it up, always thought forums where better, as most know a bit mote than a like button! Now if the omoc payed us for making a project thread! Ah hem! great thread Ian, project and work in progress! Thanks evo, I am trying to make things interesting. To be honest without the help of OMOC members I don't think that I would be as far down the road as I am - sincere thanks to all of you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 51 minutes ago, IanMc said: and still managed to get plenty on me Yeh, wait til some one lets you go to the shops looking like this, and how they can not laugh or even mention it, is beyond me! Found out five hours later, WTF! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 So, here we go - preparations are under way for repair of the NSF inner wing repairs. Being a coward, I thought that I should stat small and build up my skills and my confidence at the same time. So chose to start here: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. First off I tackled the area with this bad boy: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Then marked out what I thought were suitable areas for cutting and new metal: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The next job is to cut out the old metal with this: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. More to come later.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 A bit more preparation, by cutting away some rusty thin and holes Steel: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Then made up the first mini template: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Now to try to transfer that to sheet Steel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bris jas Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 Best to start small but as always once you start cutting it always get bigger! I would remove your screen now as you have rust that needs sorting under it as well, also will stop you damaging it with sparks as mentioned before. The metal behind where your new plate will be looks a bit rusty, if you can't get to it to cut it out (better if you can) make sure you soak it in Hydrate 80 or something similar, last thing you want is your new plate rusting from the inside out in a couple of years! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 Getting ready... Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Time to try out the new toy! - a nibbler for sheet Steel, hopefully this will make cutting out patches way easier. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 Well that was fun! I managed to get the plate cut and it wasn't a bad fit all things considered - I couldn't get the nibbler to work correctly, the thing kept jamming up - Doh! How the plate looked at first: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Held in place with magnets prior to tack welding: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Then after my first proper attempt ever at MIG welding - it certainly is not pretty, but I can tell you it certainly isn't going anywhere Please feel free to chip in at this point with any welding tips please, my knowledge level on this subject is only just above zero... Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I will take the grinder to the welds later to see what the finished effect is like. I will also make up a tiny plate for the hole on the right. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 (edited) As many members on here will have no doubt done ,myself included many times in the past and learnt from my mistakes is when you cut out a rusted section,make sure you cut back to perfect sound metal and not just to metal with no holes thats just good enough to weld to. ive repaired bits before up to where i thought was good and found that a few years down the line the area around the repair is now rusted out.if you try your best to make sure you get all the rot out now then its much more likely to be a long lasting if not permanent repair.even the action of welding causes a surface rust to start immediately around it due to the heat.( think how rusty a burned out car looks straight after ?) and once you have repaired and ground down the area make sure you get a good coating of thick paint ,sealer ,wax etc on the back of it as well as just the front that you can see.this is where ive come unstuck many times and the area rusts out and you have to do the same repair again in a few years. When i do a section replacement nowadays anywhere i always cut back to perfect if poss and i use galvanised steel. Yes the edges will rust but the middle never will again!.(i know its risky because the fumes are poisonous but i grind the edges back to non galv steel to weld to.then after grinding and all heat is done i try to make the area fully waterproof (you cannot always make the weld fully done due to heat distortion or just the odd pinhole thst you can forget)i use jb weld or equivalent to seal it before any (porous) levelling filler is added.then finally i make sure i get as much paint poured,brushed or sprayed inside. i know it seems a bit more work then patching or just using undersealing but on something you want to last and keep its well worth the extra effort doing it right and only once. Remember rust is like mould,you leave any left or an enviroment for it to live and it will return? also please remeber that this is my way of thinking. Im not trying to tell you or anyone how to do stuff ,just sharing my experiences Cheers ian Edited May 5, 2018 by cam.in.head Adding more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 As always, much appreciated Chris. I a always very happy to receive help and advice from anyone who has far more expertise in any area than myself - which is pretty much in everything to be honest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 Well it certainly isn't pretty, but it certainly is very strong - it withstood a couple of decent whacks with my hammer and didn't budge. I chickened our getting too aggressive with the grinder to be honest, I didn't fancy going through the plate or wrecking a weld - if I feel braver later, I might tackle it again... Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. A lot has been learnt today though, I feel confident that I can sort out most if not all of what I need to do - it wont be particularly beautiful, but I think it will be strong enough. Next the passenger side floor to bulkhead area... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 3 minutes ago, IanMc said: Well it certainly isn't pretty, but it certainly is very strong - it withstood a couple of decent whacks with my hammer and didn't budge. I chickened our getting too aggressive with the grinder to be honest, I didn't fancy going through the plate or wrecking a weld - if I feel braver later, I might tackle it again... Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. A lot has been learnt today though, I feel confident that I can sort out most if not all of what I need to do - it wont be particularly beautiful, but I think it will be strong enough. Next the passenger side floor to bulkhead area... Not to sound daft. But before you move on check your wing still fits properly. Get that bit wrong and it can stick out at the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 6 minutes ago, Snowy said: Not to sound daft. But before you move on check your wing still fits properly. Get that bit wrong and it can stick out at the top. Good point Snowy, many thanks I will check that shortly 10 minutes ago, IanMc said: Good point Snowy, many thanks I will check that shortly Yep, fits a treat - very pleased. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 6, 2018 Author Share Posted May 6, 2018 Morning all, An early start for me today, this morning objective - to get the second hand/repainted down pipe and gasket fitted, the proceed to fit the brand new center and tail sections. Well good news, objective achieved! - and only with a small bit of 'fettling' required. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Hopefully later today I can find some time to cut out the NS footwell to bulkhead rust - thats after I have cut all of the grass and washed three cars... Have a good day everyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robah Posted May 6, 2018 Share Posted May 6, 2018 Not sure if you are aware that you can buy weld through primers to help protect the metal especially the inside parts you can't get to especially after welding up. It does cause a little more splatter when welding and like all primers will attract a little moisture. I think without looking they contain Zinc (sacrificial material) or something similar. We all have to start somewhere and you have catalogued yours I have not got past the practise side without chickening out, even though I have qualifications in welding (30+ years ago) but mainly in Arc and Gas welding, and a lot thicker material. My car ended up with an experience welder as every time I welded a repair a bigger hole appeared next to it, and I set myself on fire a few times . My welder has been under my bench now for 10 years but will have to start using it soon, as I have a few projects that I wish to start. No best way to say this as the written word can be misread but you have given me positive vibes in me starting to weld again (in a positive manner if that helps to explain myself). Keep up the great work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted May 6, 2018 Share Posted May 6, 2018 Can I ask why are you putting in parts that have been restored that may get in the way of your cutting and welding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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