H-400 Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 (edited) After some years I noticed the right side swan neck is in a very bad condition. Did some repairs in 2009 but that was only a delay. Bought the new repair section of Eckhard and they look very well. Noticed the thickness of the new leg is 1,5mm (original 0,8mm). So the new rail will give the car some more stability. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Building out the drive-train, together with my son. So the chassis is easy to reach. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. And he is doing a great job, cleaning the old chassis legs so we can find the spot welds to drill them out. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. After dissasemble one part of the leg the upper part looked like this: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. That rail had also a reinforced part inside, that are we going to use again. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The chassis without the rail, gives us a look how cars in the 80'tis where protected against rust... Edited December 9, 2018 by H-400 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 (edited) 10 minutes ago, H-400 said: where protected against rust... Or not! When you mention strength, or rigidity, have you ever experimented with extra strength? Cross sections from chassis to chassis, thicker anti roll bars, You can plug your new chassis leg from engine bay, where it meets bulkhead, this is where water gets in, why did opel do this? Bought these of eckhard, a gentleman, very well made, didnt need them so, primed and put into storage Edited December 9, 2018 by ®evo03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bris jas Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 I fitted these chassis legs from Eckhard on my last project, top quality. Good to see you getting your son involved, hopefully he'll be part of the next generation Manta savours.👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted December 9, 2018 Author Share Posted December 9, 2018 Yep evo, this is what I mean. There was no rust protection at all...This repair is not for a rally-car so no extra strength is needed. And yes, the water hole of the chassis leg is a well know problem. @Jason: He is going to be a part of the next generation, he wants to drive that GSI... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted December 10, 2018 Author Share Posted December 10, 2018 Test-fitting the new "half" chassis legs: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The brown stuff on the bulkhead is old glue: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Another pic before cleaning: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Cleaning: with a soft brush degreasing the innerside of the left legs, cleaning them wit a steel brush and compressed air. Then I used Rustyco, a gell that eats rust and can cleaned with water, and environment friendly: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The nice weather dryed the car, but to be sure I putted my wife's hairdryer in the chassis rails... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berlinetta Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 Great thread! Gives me ideas for Manta fixes! Is that the new INNER chassis rail in the photos? Why does it come in two halves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted December 10, 2018 Author Share Posted December 10, 2018 Thanks for the comments. This is the outer chassisrail, the further pics will explain the rest. Think it comes in two halves so the width is suitable to cover the original outer rail. Some don't have the skills to do the whole work and I can understand that. I am also more a mecanic than a welder. Took me ages to take that torch again. Maybe Herr Eckhard can answer your question? Some more pics: Fitting the reinforced inner rail, must be accurate there the bolt of the suspension is located: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Welding the outer half, there are a lot of holes in the outer rail so spotwelding is easy: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Reinforcing the inner rail where the vertical bolt of the front axle fits. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Fitting the top inner rail: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Everything welded, the silver look is cause I paint-spray everything (before welding) with inox-paint. It conducs electricity very well and is special for mig-welding so the overlay is protected against rust: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Between the two inner rails some more reinforcing: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Same on the inside of the other half: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Ready to treat the seems with kit, as you can see the two halves are welded together wile I used a home-made spanner to keep the rail on its position. I had to cut some metal to keep the original width of the outer rail: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. @Evo: In the corner you can see the triangle hole, that needs some fixing as the little round hole above it. One detail: drilled one more hole to make the original fixation free of the earth cable. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 Superb Gerhard, very well done! Are you doing both sides? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ANDY ABBOTT Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 Love those chassis rails great work well done 😎 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted December 10, 2018 Author Share Posted December 10, 2018 Thanks for the nice comment. @Ian: after treating the old parts of the rails with rust-eater I used high air pressure to spray rustconverter into them. The other side was done in 2009 and after a check I treated it the same. The car goes back to a body-shop to do some spot repairs and also to repaint the engine bay. Later the rails will get a fresh anti-rust treatment. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted December 11, 2018 Share Posted December 11, 2018 Eckhards outer rail come in two halfs due to tooling and production methods, H400, i normally use a similar plug to the door hinge plug, to seal small corner hole. You could also drill into chassis from behind steering column inside the car, and full length of car to use protection in years to come! You can use plugs again to seal them. Full repair sections two inner sections, and four inner sections are expensive! But oh so worth it, as mantas are expensive too! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 Hi Evo, thanks for the hint, it is realy so easy but never thought on that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted January 12, 2019 Author Share Posted January 12, 2019 The Manta is yet at the painter: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. After 10 years there are some spots that need attention, but my son is motivated to help: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Maybe it needs some work cause I did this with the car? Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Yeah, a car is made to drive, not to put in a glass box... 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 When will you get her back from the paint shop Herman? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted January 12, 2019 Author Share Posted January 12, 2019 The paint shop is the same as 10 years back, I know the owner very well and as the last time I am allowed to prepare the car. So it means I've got to take free, that will be the week from jan the 21st. In the meantime I took the front axle complete apart, going to galvanise the bolts and some other parts and respray the rest. Hopefully there will be no special duty's at our barrack's cause there are two tanks (Leopard) on their way to Estland and there is some "rumble in the jungle" cause of the election-problems in Congo. At this moment it is raining, I wanted to respray the parts under my carport but to moist... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 Well have done some work on the Manta, but not that much progress. Lot of time cleaning and degreasing. 10 years ago I gave the car a Dinitrol treatment, by a professional. The result is that all the bodyparts inside have that greasy wet stuff, the engine compartiment also...Takes ages to remove it! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. This is how the car is at this moment. Question: Never done it without disassamble the dash-board, is it possible to remove the heater box?(engine bay) Tried to look under the dash to check if I can unscrew those 4 bolts but my back is killing me today. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Another rust-sensitive part: Removed the rust till naked steel, went into the seem with a Dremel grinding tool and treated it with rust-eater. Later some rust-converter on it and this is the result. Needs ofcourse some work. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Found a Recaro-ventilation device in the floor pan! So cutted the steel till it was rustfree and welded a sheet of metal in it. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Also a well known problem, the battery-tray. Still looks OK, but needs some minor repairs. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The floor-pans were 10years ago welded, but the seams had some "fly-rust". De-rusted them, used rust converter and special metal paint to protect against rust. Grts, Herman 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Nice work Herman. Its best to sort those type of things out now of course, it will save a lot more time, money and heart ache later. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bris jas Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 1 hour ago, IanMc said: Nice work Herman. Its best to sort those type of things out now of course, it will save a lot more time, money and heart ache later. Couldn't agree more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 Thanks for the nice comments, always more work than we expect. Want this car 100% technical OK, my son is going to drive it. He has got to learn "No ABS, No Power steering, No stabilisation system, No traction controll, No GPS, No smart-phone device, and so one" He just don't nows it yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted January 26, 2019 Share Posted January 26, 2019 A real car then, need need for a gym, built in fitness regime. You could at least fit corsa b power assisted steering, so he doesnt exhaust himself whilst parallel parking, 😚 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1200bandit Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 You make this look very easy.Nice work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 (edited) Made some progress, the bumper was cracked twice on one side: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. So I made a metal plate with the shape of the inside, bending and welding, drilling to give the gleu a strong grip: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. This is how the car looks, the engine bay and the rear right side need repainting Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Waterproof chassisrails: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Some work was done on the back: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Again rustfree: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Original battery-tray, looks after all the years pretty good: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited March 10, 2019 by H-400 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Superb Herman, she's looking great already - congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 Thanks Ian, I am working on the home-made 400 bonnet and than they can paint everything. Gonna take some pics of this "Bonnet-project". Grts, Herman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 (edited) Made in 1994 this bonnet, cutted the frame and welded a lot of threaded studs on the inside of the skin. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Gleud and bolted the air-intakes, made everything nice with filler on the outside. But after some years the filler began to crack on several places, because the skin vibrated to much... The bonnet went on the attic of the garage. 20 years later, the Belgian MOT doesn't allow a fiber bonnet without CE-marking, so I took the bonnet back down: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. You can see the air intakes and also the missing parts af the frame, took those parts of another donor bonnet and welded them in: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Yet the skin of the bonnet is again supported so I hope the new filler won't crack again. All this work and I have this waiting in my garage: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. A fiber bonnet... not allowed... Edited March 10, 2019 by H-400 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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