611 Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 13 hours ago, H-400 said: Hi Andy, I used this: https://www.hbm-machines.com/producten/automotive/automotive-gereedschap-1/motorcompartiment-1/cilinder-en-zuiger-gereedschap/hbm-zuigerveer-compressor-set-1 But I saw a video with that tool you used and the piston slides nice into the engine block. Looks like a good one and easier than those band ones 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted April 30, 2021 Author Share Posted April 30, 2021 (edited) Some time ago I posted something on this topic. Didn't do that much but more thinking & improvising...First problem: The oil pump gears! Opened the Risse Oil Pump and noticed the gears are not in a good condition. Never had any problems with the oil pressure but you can see why I was surprised: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. They look worn and the clearance was also a bit too much. I am not a fan of those big oil pumps cause a standard pump gives enough oil as long it is in good condition. I have another set of gears but looking for new ones... Fitted the chain guides on the engine block and also a new oil seal in the timing house: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The engine ready to fit the timing house: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Timing house & water pump fitted: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Looks like a normal CIH: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Hmm, think not: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. With the head on the engine I checked the valve clearance again, and I had a lot of work to set them. Had to mix a lot of measurments (and shims) to end that I have three valves that are too tiny so those shims need to be replaced... Did this some time ago with the head before fitting on the engine...Think I replaced those cams 6 times, why not! Last Friday I bitten my dental filling in pieces so after more than a week I can visit my dentist next tuesday. The pain is killing me but now I'm going to drink a beer! Have all a nice weekend and stay safe! Edited April 30, 2021 by H-400 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 Have 2 beers Herman 🍻 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 2 hours ago, H-400 said: Some time ago I posted something on this topic. Didn't do that much but more thinking & improvising...First problem: The oil pump gears! Opened the Risse Oil Pump and noticed the gears are not in a good condition. Never had any problems with the oil pressure but you can see why I was surprised: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. They look worn and the clearance was also a bit too much. I am not a fan of those big oil pumps cause a standard pump gives enough oil as long it is in good condition. I have another set of gears but looking for new ones... Fitted the chain guides on the engine block and also a new oil seal in the timing house: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The engine ready to fit the timing house: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Timing house & water pump fitted: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Looks like a normal CIH: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Hmm, think not: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. With the head on the engine I checked the valve clearance again, and I had a lot of work to set them. Had to mix a lot of measurments (and shims) to end that I have three valves that are too tiny so those shims need to be replaced... Did this some time ago with the head before fitting on the engine...Think I replaced those cams 6 times, why not! Last Friday I bitten my dental filling in pieces so after more than a week I can visit my dentist next tuesday. The pain is killing me but now I'm going to drink a beer! Have all a nice weekend and stay safe! Looking good Herman and beer always helps 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 Looked around for info about those long oil pump gears and they seem to like to "dance" in the oil pump house, checked also the clearance between the gears and the bottom plate. They had too much play so it had probably some effect on the condition the gears are at this moment. After some measuring I'm going to replace 5 shims, not sure I'm going to order them @ Risse or looking for a local shop that can grind them perfectly. If the surface is not 100% flat it will push the cam follower out of the centre in the aluminium head. A pic of checking the clearance of the cranckshaft, Nasa proved technology: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. And some parts of Edelschmiede arrived: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Have a nice Sunday 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1200bandit Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 Got a engineering shop to grain down some cam shaft sims as l had a head gas flowed ect could not get a sim to fit Was spot on had no problems 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted May 12, 2021 Author Share Posted May 12, 2021 Been a while, finally I could visit the dentist. He had to denerv the tooth, a molar. Not something your waiting for... And if it was not enough I slipped in the bathroom and fell on the border of the bathtub with my chest. Happened more in the past in the army so I knew a visit to the ER or a doctor won't help. Not laughing, sleeping on my back and so on... The shop that did my engine block and the head helped me with the shims, no problem: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Fitted them and checked the clearance, as Bandid would say "spot on"👍. Everything is torqued, the sprockets of the cams and fitted the covers of the cams with new gaskets. The camcover/inlet is placed so no debris can fall in the engine. Got to open it again before starting to oil the chain: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Am waiting for the oilsump, want to weld the baffle plate with a TIG, cause that doesn't make that much residu as MIG. So began again with the gearbox. Cleaning the surface and the bolts, preparing to fit the new oilseal: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Pressing the new oilseal in the alu plate: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Everyting is back assembled with a new gasket and sealer, tomorrow the other side. Grts, Herman 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trooker Posted May 12, 2021 Share Posted May 12, 2021 Great work especially with bruised ribs! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted May 12, 2021 Author Share Posted May 12, 2021 Thanks trooker, had to change the front brakediscs and pads of the Insignia. Never took so long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trooker Posted May 12, 2021 Share Posted May 12, 2021 55 minutes ago, H-400 said: Thanks trooker, had to change the front brakediscs and pads of the Insignia. Never took so long. Ouch, no wonder! Guess those army years mean you’re not wired to take it easy for a few weeks & let someone else do it either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted May 20, 2021 Author Share Posted May 20, 2021 (edited) Trooker, think you'v got a point. About the army: The media is full of that Belgian "Rambo" who is hiding in the woods, heard about that? Back on topic: Old oilseal out and new in: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Glued the dipstick-tube in the engine block, don't want it to fall down: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The baffle plate in the oilsump: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. And fitted on the engine, tried first a complete rubber gasket I bought in Germany but wasn't a tight fit so back to original: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Done some porting on the cilinderhead but it won't help without working on the outlet manifold. So I used again the bigger Risse outlet-gaskets as a template to grind the inside of the manifold: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Did this outside cause I don't want the metal residu of grinding in my garage. Also cause working on the bench hurts too much with those damaged ribs... Edited May 20, 2021 by H-400 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 Nice work 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted June 4, 2021 Author Share Posted June 4, 2021 And yes again some time ago... The outlet manifold on the engine: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Took the engine out and on a stand with wheels so I can fit the clutch etc. Picture of the crankshaft seals: The black one is a normal CIH one, the brown one "400". You can see the difference. Got the original partnr. of this seal but not available anymore, so I asked someone on this forum (privacy is important) for help and he gave me the new partnr. and I found out it is the same seal as a diesel engine and the 3.0-24V engine. So again thanks for the info, this shows how important this forum is: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Seal fitted: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. And the flywheel mark "1" fits the "1" on the clutch : Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. And then I listened to the advice of Trooker, took some time off cause those ribs do adapt the position of my body and hurts my back/spine. Had problems with doing the dishes... After some time I did a project together with my neighbour that wasn't so difficult, but completely off topic. Got great neighbours and think it is important. Think the pics will show what we did: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. And open: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I'm the one on the right, man not so long ago I ran a half marathon 😥... So a few days ago I went back into my garage, cleaned the clutch house and noticed the original clutch bearing is dry and worn. Looked into my "shed" and found another one in good condition. Look at the clutch arm, it is not a steel pressed one but a cast iron one as some 6 cilinders have: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Cleaned the engine bay and also the "swann-necks" , nice to see everything is free of rust. Look at the engine mounts; they are the same as the 6-inline: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Have all a nice weekend 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted June 11, 2021 Author Share Posted June 11, 2021 Sorry, not done a lot... The engine and gearbox are in the car. Wanted to fit them as usually together but the cable hoist was making weird noises when I lifted the engine with gearbox. I learned in the technical military school a metal cable can have 1100kg/ cm diameter so my hoist is a 2/1 with a 3mm cable so it must be possible but if it is a China product I didn't take any risk. So I fitted the engine with the bellhouse, this because those bolts between engine & bellhouse are difficult to get by cause of that big 16V head. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. After that I wanted to fit the gearbox as usually on my belly and lift it up but no those ribs still are complaining. Rebuilded my car jack with a wooden plate and some big bolts so I used it as a transmission jack. The gearbox slided without problems into the bellhouse: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. After that fitting the gearstick plate, the pinn with those O-rings and clips etc... And I had some work on my mountain bike, the hydraulic brake caliper was stucked on the disc (thought my condition was so bad, but noticed it when I was halfway a bike tour) so repaired this also. But some good news, one of my neighbours asked me if I wanted to take over his rental garagebox so yes I will! 50 euro's a month for extra space to park a car and a lot of spareparts😁. Off topic: In those 38 years of service I spend more than 5 years in the military technical school. One of those educations was towing & winching trucks and tanks. Working and lifting with a crane, saving people with those hydraulic scissors etc. This was long ago my first wrecker truck: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. M62 build in 1956, was so proud my commander gave me the "keys". 6 cilinder petrol engine, used 150 liter petrol /100km. Petrol tank of 500 liter and 9 jerrycans of 20 liter... Max speed 55 miles /hour. Have all a nice weekend. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 (edited) Would you have enough power in hoist to lift shell at front? And remove front axle complete, (without calipers) and fix engine box and front axle in one, but from underneath! ........Just like opel did. Just a thought! Ive done it a few ways, just like you, engine then box, engine and box! I think all three easiest, i am thinking of a way to lift shell with ease! Older minds think harder! Great work, how / why is engine so clean! Edited June 13, 2021 by ®evo03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted June 14, 2021 Author Share Posted June 14, 2021 Hi Evo, the hoist is not strong enough, but I know what you mean, did that with the GSI: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 definately enough power in a hoist yes but its the height that could be the issue.the shell once unbolted from the axle complete with engine can easily be lifted by hand with 2 people.i remeber doing this many years ago to a royale but we couldnt get it high enough to clear the mac struts so obviously a manta doesnt need to go as high. when i did my top mounts the other week i was reassembling them and they seemed to stick going back on so i tried to lift the car with front bumper thinking i could jiggle them into pisition and all i succeded in doing was lifting the front of the car clean back out of the long bolts and the axle tilted backwards and i was back to square 1 ! bugger ! sorry herman didnt mean to contradict you. you replied whhilst i was also repliying ! shell doesnt weigh much compared to engine and box surely 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted June 14, 2021 Author Share Posted June 14, 2021 No problem cam.in.head 😁, looked the other day closer at my hoist and the max load is 200kg. But I never tried to lift a shell as you did. Next time! When I took that pic the front wings were off, the bumper and hood etc. But the interieur was still in, and those recaro's are heavy but easy to remove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 Front of Shell is a hell of a lot lighter to lift off the subframe/engine/gearbox. And definitely safer than trying to angle and engine with gearbox back into engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted June 16, 2021 Author Share Posted June 16, 2021 Back again, and good news: The engine runs! First I filled the gearbox with oil ( and spilled some one the exhaust...), connected all the wires and the starter engine etc... Repaired the wires to the oil contact. I know there is a topic about the location of this thing and I'm a fan of the original location. If your oil pressure drops it can also be a indication there is a loss of oil pressure cause of worn bearings. A pic of my oil contact: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Used a drill to pump the oil to the top of the engine after filling the oil filter, the oil pump and ofcourse the engine with mineral oil to break in: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. You can see the oil squirting out of the camshafts: (Why does Miley Cyrus jump in my mind?) Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. So closed the engine and did a test start: My Son helped me with the starting of the engine, think he wants to take that car for a drive😁. After the start-test I fitted the water tubes and radiator, filled the system with cooland mixture and lowered the car back on its wheels. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Drove the car outside my garage until the nose pointed up to be sure the air went out of the cooling system, everything looks ok, no leaks but some smoke cause of the spilled gearbox oil... Tomorrow test drive, gonna be not soft for the engine to make sure the piston rings do not glaze the cilinders. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trooker Posted June 16, 2021 Share Posted June 16, 2021 Brilliant pics & video, sounds fantastic 😎 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted June 18, 2021 Author Share Posted June 18, 2021 Car is not drivable, noticed there is a lot of backfire in the exhaust. When hot the ignition begins to stall/stutter. The only thing I changed was the feul pressure regulator so I fitted the other one again. Some work has done in the past, the throttle body is one of a 6-cilinder and the AFM is a BMW 635CSI one. So I thought too much feul but it stays the same. The HT cables are new from Magnecor but the spark plugs are years old. Ordered a new set to be sure as also a dizzy cap and rotor. To be sure I tested the compression with my wife, (son was watching football with his friends...) when I calculated something wrong and the compression ratio is too high the spark of the ignition can be blown away but the compression is a bit more than 14 Bar so it gives me a CR of 10.5/1 as I wanted. Parts arrive in the afternoon so later more info 😥. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trooker Posted June 18, 2021 Share Posted June 18, 2021 Frustrating after all that work but no doubt you’ll figure it out. Hope the new bits do the trick 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted June 18, 2021 Share Posted June 18, 2021 5 hours ago, H-400 said: Car is not drivable, noticed there is a lot of backfire in the exhaust. When hot the ignition begins to stall/stutter. The only thing I changed was the feul pressure regulator so I fitted the other one again. Some work has done in the past, the throttle body is one of a 6-cilinder and the AFM is a BMW 635CSI one. So I thought too much feul but it stays the same. The HT cables are new from Magnecor but the spark plugs are years old. Ordered a new set to be sure as also a dizzy cap and rotor. To be sure I tested the compression with my wife, (son was watching football with his friends...) when I calculated something wrong and the compression ratio is too high the spark of the ignition can be blown away but the compression is a bit more than 14 Bar so it gives me a CR of 10.5/1 as I wanted. Parts arrive in the afternoon so later more info 😥. Your wife - accommodating as ever. Hope you (and your wife) get it sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted June 18, 2021 Author Share Posted June 18, 2021 Thanks for the comments, yes my wife was always a good help. When we still were dating she helped me with ganging my first Manta from 4-speed to 5 speed and no not any problem for her. And she knows how to read a map! Just back from a testdrive (with the son) after fitting the parts I ordered. Runs better, noticed my idle was a bit higher and the problems with the ignition are solved. But the backfire is still there, car did this before but yet it seems to be louder and smell petrol. Gonna check the throttle switch, normaly if you decelerate the switch gives signal to the ECU to cut of the feul until idle speed. The feul pressure regulator has got no vacuum so the pressure stays high, thats why I wanted to fit an original again. So back into the garage... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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