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Finally starting to put things back together .. Got both subframes and suspension in to allow us to move it around. Heater and all the firewall soundproofing in today

Finally the painting is complete

I hope Ian doesn't mind, but I believe it's this one. I don't know how many were sold in the UK, Rainer Manthey in Germany may know.

Primed painted ill put another coat of paint on tonight

He’s a lucky man then. She looks lovely 😍

It's a shame, as I know someone who dumped all this stuff, as it isn't the sort after colour, black or grey. Red was probably more common in Cavaliers or Asconas. I think it is time I go through my parts and filter down, carefully decide what I want to hold on to. Either list it or advertise it. I have one possible lead for one of these red door pockets, and will try.

I’ve had a break from this. Due to temperature dropping and will power leaving. Trying to do an hour an evening now. got to check the rear axle over, clean and treat the under body surface. the axle is dirty and there is a very small hole near the shocker mount which can be filled with the welder. I don’t want to spend too much time cleaning and repainting the axle as I don’t know how good it is. If it’s the original 1.6, it’ll go well off the mark but be utterly crap top end. I have two spare axles up my unit (1.8 and 2.0) if it comes to that. the body floor has 40 years worth of dirt and mild corrosion to sort out I’ve taken the roll bar off, to clean, grind and repaint. It’s a little pitted, but meh, it will go again. I’ll get that cleaned off and throw some paint at it i had a box of new springs x2 that I bought well over 10 years ago. They definitely aren’t rear, maybe front so the rears need cleaning and inspecting. they don’t look toooo bad.

This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup

From a tiny bit of research ULTEM 1010 Polyetheriide (PEI) looks to have a thermal conductivity similar to rubber as well as thermal stability of over 200 oC and melts at 315 oC. It can also be 3D Printed. I think the trouble with some of the foams are that they're printed using materials like polypropylene which would melt too soon. However, Polyamide foam should be good to about 200oC. If this venture fails, there's a company that sells it in varying thicknesses with or without self adhesive backing. So you could easily DIY something that looks similar. https://www.ramsayrubber.com/custom-products/polyamide-foam-pads/

I've sent this to the wife, unfortunately she's already bought my Christmas present apparently

Rover 220 diesel front discs machined to 256mm, Sierra vented calipers using mantasrme brackets on a 4ha axle.

Spoke to soon it’s dried solid new tiger seal on order!

It's also probably worth saying that modern insulation panels like the silver backed butyl products may be superior. So you could even just print an authentic looking cover that's a little stiffer at 1/2 or 1/4 thickness with modern insulation underneath. I'm very tempted to line mine with some glassmat where possible

Thanks, the rear of my sisters escort MK4 is covered in the stuff to keep water out the boot 🤣😂🤣😂 I guess it's possible to use the spares I have to craft replacement sections and glue them in. Also, if this works out, we'll need some appropriate push clips. I damaged one getting impatient. On materials, my degree and master's degree were in Materials Science so I'll see if I can help identify the material and a suitable replacement.can try some basic materials classification to identify what it could be. It looks fibre reinforced which may make a direct 3D printed copy impossible. We could find a better material though. One that holds its shape or has better structural integrity. Silicone is the immediate thought or perhaps 3D printed moulds for other more fluid elastomers.

Tiger seal has worked before. Once fully hardened, probably about a good 5-7 days. It can be shaped, sanded and works well blending it in, joints, edges, cracks.

Actually yes, I do need some bits for my LS - do you have a non DOD valley pan cover and a front timing cover that's also non DOD (LS1/ LS3 style) per chance? I am probably gonna need to hunt down an exclusive rear bumper though as that's the piece I'm missing from the parts I've acquired so far. Pulled this little lot out of the parents loft, and I know i have a full set of glass in their garage loft i need to move over once the Spare room's had a bit of clearing out

I didn't send him the steering cowl rubber as I wasn't ready to strip the area down but when I get to it, I can post it out. Assuming the first round goes well. There's also the other flatter it's that are pinned to the firewall either side of the gearbox and against the top of the scuttle panel

Looks pretty good, a couple of front wings needed, but all the hard to replace bits are there. As long as it ain't puff pastry underneath, that is. Says the car is listed at £3500.

Injector seals: EAC2415 (14mm x 8.5mm x 4.4mm) Injector body clamp rubbers: EAC2414 (31mm x 21.5mm x 8mm sorry a bit late in the day but might help others.

Steel wheel silver, you’ll need to watch Convoy after using that. 10/4

Another layer of gloss from the other side. Calling that done. cleaned and painted the D bush holders in “steel wheel silver” as that’s all we had in the cupboard at work 🤣 and I kinda want to break it up a little lol.

Hi! I'm looking to buy a chrome front bumper for the 1978 opel manta B1. I'm looking for something in good condition and hopefully with the black rubber strip still attached to it. (Or maybe tell me where to buy the rubber strip). I'm located in Croatia so I would pay for shipping of course.

https://www.donedeal.ie/vintagecars-for-sale/manta-400-rep/38511770

Just to resurrect this thread, discs for 5 stud axles....Still working on a final set up...Jag TRW rear calipers, BMW Z3 front 300mm discs....the shafts stick out further than the Manta ones, using GTE wheel bearing with a sleeve, as Commodore shafts are smaller diameter....

Remember Ray West wanting to sell his @£25000 albeit in the late 90's

Decided that nothing going to happen with the manta until February next year,so on with the cover ,

PRC is a rubber based coating that looks OK on these cover/trims.

Happy to share scan when I have them so we can discuss suitable printable materials

As above, it will be something worn on the anti roll bar or lower arm and when you have bigger wheels and wider tyres on you will find on full lock it tends to move with worn or older bushes. You will probably find its more noticeable on full lock in reverse. I don't think you will full remove the movement as mine does it with 205 x 55 x 15's on full lock in reverse with all new bushing (and some are poly) Also check the front valance to see how that lines up as there can be a bit of a difference from one side to the other as there is quite a bit of movement when bolting that lower part up to the wings. I couldn't solve mine so i folded the lower edge of the valance to stop it doing it. These were originally fitted with 14's and probably 165 tyres so bigger and wider will be much closer, so it does not take too much movement to get close to the valance on full lock.

Both rear arches needed repair panels which fitted quite well.

Some good 3D printable (filament) foam that would be suitable. Ofc it wont be identical to the OEM cast stuff, but I guess having the scanned models definitely opens up lots of possibilities

I got to the brake cowl washer bottle side today. Mine is missing the leftmost section but if wanted I can post it off. I'm not sure how the bit the wiper motor rests on works either. It looks like a separate piece but mine is in pieces. It's staying loosely in place until it needs to move otherwise it'll sag.

Hi all trying to finish my ascona 400 REP for the new year,and looking for 2 flip out windows for the rear and yes they do exist as I have the loan of 2 in my,shed any help sourcing these would b great Thanks

Yes that's my console and I can do a decent discount on it for you timmy. I also have a flywheel available 🙂 No problem posting to ni

Mr Carlos I believe has a centre console on Ebay..

From my archive, do these help? Included are images of the heater matrix cover the rubber fits onto.

Hi everyone, just joined the forum as recently managed to purchase this 1.9SR Manta A. Currently in the process of getting a few jobs done that it needs.....swapping carb from something way too big to a 32/34 Webber, getting the electrics sorted and a few other minor jobs, but the rest of the car seems in great shape, having recently been imported from South Africa. Despite looking at various sites, I can't seem to find any details of how many A's were sold in the UK originally (I know near half a million Worldwide were produced, but can't find sales figures for the UK?) Any help much appreciated. Can't figure out how to post a pic here, as not technically minded!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/196855916311

Everyone will be after it , the difference between a couple and a hatch price unreal,the hatch is more practical

Reading and re-reading the manual a few times, certainly helps - it’s weird that it can be so confusing and then suddenly after a short break you read it again and all becomes clear. Have you tried phoning them for advice? I think they get asked the same questions over and over again, so are usually very good at explaining something to you in laymans terms.

Primer all completed , first colour in engine bay Should be good progress next week

Hi It been a while but the welding is finished it ended up sills, lower rear quarters, a bit of both floors ,swan necks, closing panels, spare wheel well, plus loads of bits and the most fiddly bit which was sorting the front out as it was more rotten than first though so I ended up getting a 2 slot front and convering it to 4 The shell has now been eCoated and is now at the paint shop. A few pictures attached

If you keep a sharp eye open on e-bay they do come up reasonably often - put a saved search in. Almost all of the German 60mm clocks of this period appear to have been made by Kinzel, (although supplied to suit the individual Car makers face style) and are an impulse wind mechanism. The energy to make the mechanical clock work is stored in a small coil spring which is would round a drum for an angle of about 60 degrees, the energy in the spring allows the clock mechanism to run for about a minute, after which a pair of points operated by the drum close and energizes an electromagnet, which flings the drum and attached spring end back to its fully wound position, to repeat the operation. It is possible to carefully open the clocks by using a small jewelers screwdriver to pry back the back edge of the chrome ring and release the plastic window. This allows the time setting knob to be de-gunged so that it works properly. You can get at the clock mechanism by removing the 3 slot headed screws on the rear plastic cover (don't turn the very small slotted screw head with the arrow and + and -.) There appear to be 2 main causes of failure for the mechanisms. Firstly, the energy storing springs goes weak with time and the clock mechanism stops before the rewind points close, Secondly the points become claggy and even when closed don't enable the necessary current to drive the solenoid. Both can sometimes be overcome by gently bending the points arm connected to the Spring Drum. There is one other cause of the clocks not working, and that is generic! After 50 odd years the lubricant in the mechanical clock mechanism congeals and the friction in the mechanism becomes too great for the Impulse Spring to drive the clock. There is a solution, go and buy some very light electric contact lubricant spray. Give the mechanism a light spray, and then when connected to 12V, 'help' the mechanism run a number of times, giving some extra light sprays as required. After a little coaxing the cleaner/lubricant works its way back into al the bits that need to be lubricated and the clock starts to work again! One comment - DONT USE WD40 - it contains water, I have used Kontakt Super 10. The nice working clock in my car is actually an Opel or VW casing and face with the mechanism off an NSU Prinz grafted straight into the Opel casing! Now is it 'Nopel' or 'Opu'? By removing the front chrome ring, you can also re-paint the hands carefully to the original fluorescent orange on all of the gauges! You don't need to re-clench the chrome ring right round, since it is actually held on by the clocks mounting screws. Hope that this helps, I did this on my first Manta A in 1978, and have recently done it on my 'new' Manta A in 2024! I could probably take some photos of one that I couldn't get running if it would be of value. (my success rate has been about 75%) John

spray the back / hidden areas with weld thru primer . each has their own choice of type ! you must have been typing whilst i was !! lol

Weld through zinc primer is what I use on all of the patches that will not be able to get to afterwards.

Yes it is Astro Silver