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This is my little GTE hatchback I pulled from a shed about 8 months ago took a little felting to get running again then it took 2 pre MOTs failed on wheel bearings and brakes all replaced second one handbrake cable had one strand left replaced that and a new full exhaust system it got a clean no advisories MOT I have since put a thousand odd miles on and loving it sadly it needs the paint sorted in parts and has been previously welded in usual places in 2013 but done very well and has stood the test of time little surface rust in parts but slowly working at them 79k miles on it what do you guys think of it10 points
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All done just needs a polish and some odds n sods and a few test miles probably next year now though 😳 I had some of Clive’s custom parts and as it’s Clive’s old car it would be rude not to put them on big thanks to David ( Mantasport) im not a restorer just a novice so there will be elements others don’t like even though it’s tax and mot exempt I will put one on for peace of mind10 points
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6 points
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167049524538?_skw=opel+manta&itmmeta=01JB8Z2CBJ5PXZ9M88X958GEK3&hash=item26e4ed753a:g:0d8AAOSw9t9nHpba&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKne%2FZ75BgHSq5HbA4ohhloftzrCjpedooilBh%2FfT6QAusf86%2BLav1dBaDaOuZ0yqsYw4r79OxCttU1Cxjv2peZWIWib3rphTvSx49Wy%2BuOtqlDyI3%2FYegKajsg94%2FR806Xs2rb8St%2FuN1aV7%2FWazrEKFBNzIRK2QyLZUX0wb53s%2F1jBmjFDZ0XWUmxkJmp8U54Bf0mHBZRumOHa2WsZfrmPsGtdSmUbeHH2sDQbYHq7IjutQYx%2BK7IXOTHqBI%2Ff9k5vkKkN2IughLIfSeqK3Cms7mM4%2Bk1ByLf1gg8ygarZ3g%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-rFiZ_aZA6 points
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Bro to my own 😎 some think it manta only came with quad lights unbelievably, and some think my car above and my 400® are completely different models, it's the world we are living in folks. 🤣 I believe there is a game, when you spot a yellow car, you get to dead arm your passenger, I'm the cause of multiple dead arms 🤣 If that doesn't help sell it, nothing will, I'm even tempted myself.5 points
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It will be interesting to see what this makes. Restored 6 years ago. It looks in very good condition. Why early Bs like this dont make the same money as later cars is a bit of a mystery to me as they were better built.5 points
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5 points
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5 points
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Anything under £300-350 is cheap for a rhd corsa B column complete with lower link and ecu currently. I see then sell for £450 now and then on ebay too Which is silly money i think. But they are not common any more, very few corsa's had them fitted and they are 24years old at least now. Rare to find a corsa in a scrap yard, infact i rarely find the later Corsa C's in my local yards never mind the B's Most of the ones i've made for people are for older folk (lets face it none of us are spring chickens any more on here) who find the standard steering heavy when their other car is a modern with very light steering. Or people with shoulder/ back/ or chest issues. The other common one is when you have a 400 with a quickrack, then the power steering really comes in to its own5 points
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Hi, Just rejoined after taking a year out, Look forward to catching up with everyone again. Original membership number until last year was 1105 so long term member.5 points
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crusty bodywork is almost history, some progress in the last few years... Sunroof unfortunately had to be replaced with new steel around the sides(around 50mm each side welded in), filled & sprayed Maybe i should have just let my son to do more of the welding but we got there...nearly, i need a break from it sometimes as its agonising so slow. So we are getting on with the mechanical rebuild ahead of the engine being refitted Im quite proud of my brake servo tbh, managed to find a new cylinder online as well, new fuel lines in 8mm copper front to back, tank refitted with new vent pipes and given apaint, going to get more parts ready soon like brake calipers and drums rebiulding, And change ing the handbrake cable5 points
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Thought I may aswell start a thread on here as haven’t really updated the other builds. Some will know Ive been building a 2.4 CIH 16v the last few years. it’s now coming together will all the components pretty much sorted and matching work done. now been debating which of the fleet to put in but, I like them all as they are tbh. So I thought what haven’t I owned yet that would suit the engine. There were no kadett coupes for sale anywhere for a price to suit my pocket but a few asconas were. This one popped up for sale in Motherwell for the right price and the right condition for what I wanted, not much welding to sort and not a complete car that wouldn’t want to bastardize. I am moving work units next with do not much will be done until next year but have sourced a rollcage already. Still not 100% if I will be converting to RHD and debating to dipping or blasting route, so many opinions of both and so many up and downs to both. It will be a road car and normally aspirated semi stripped out.5 points
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this one: Made it also myself. Easy to use. Edelschmiede sells them:5 points
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I've been slowly rebuilding a 2.4 CIH over the summer and things are finally starting to come together. The bottom end is freshly rebuilt now and wrapped up patiently waiting for the head. I stripped the head a few weeks ago and checked that all looked okay then took down to my local engine shop for a rebuild - Crack tested, pressure tested, ported and Beryllium copper vales guides fited with 3 angle valve seats. I popped down today to see how he was getting on, and was excited to see the head looking quite different to when I took it in! It needs a final clean and finishing the valve seats but it should be home soon and then we can get it on the engine stand, and crack on. Progress at last!4 points
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4 points
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Some photos of the club stand at the show last weekend. Thanks to all who came along and said hello, bought some merch and a special thanks to the 3 folks that brought cars along. This year we were celebrating the Manta CC. It had been mentioned a few times over the last year that the club is biased towards Coupes and 400 replicas. To show the Manta hatch off and promote the love for this model, we had a Manta 1.8 GT hatch, a 1.8 Berlinetta Hatch and a GTE hatch. We did try to get a Manta B hatch too, but they are getting quite scarce now. We know of one locally but were unsuccessful in persuading the new owner to bring it out! I hope you agree we did the Manta Hatch proud this year.4 points
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4 points
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4 points
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Thanks, If it helps just send the end cap and the retaining plastic trim and the round heater blower cover save on post and I can get them scanned and get started.4 points
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Black & tan is a psycho nut job 100% full on spaniel, brown and white one just food obsessed. My Cav has a sign in the window “Cavaliers on board”4 points
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Has the rubber carb mounting been checked out ? Just reading through everything don't think it's been mentioned. Prone to cracking and porosity, can weaken the mixture enough when warm to cause these problems. Spray some brake cleaner around the base of the carb when idling and see if you get an increase in revs?4 points
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Cheers Pete. Nice to be back. Fully retired now so have plenty of time to play with cars now. Hope all is well with you mate. Hi Jason. I've bought my old B series hatch back from Mick Maher. Always loved this old car. Glad to own it again.4 points
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Jefboite.be will fully recondition and modify advance on a bosch distributor to i200 spec, Had mine done came back as good as new.4 points
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It is more to do with future worth. I’m happy with a lhd to drive but some have said Itl be easier to sell in the future if left lhd as market in Europe is bigger.4 points
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4 points
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Is that the wheel I gave you as a wedding present?4 points
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Myself and danny ormerod restored that car 7/8 years ago Best manta shell I've ever seen - no rot whatsoever anywhere None sunroof It's a berlinetta though not an Sr 5 speed conversion with 4 speed gearstick Built with engleman mirrors, buyer changed it to the abominations currently fitted Expensive great quality paint We really put hearts and souls into it and it only made £8500 Proof of the early b series not being worth what it should be See what it makes this time but I would be surprised if money changes hands over £10k3 points
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I love an early B, they are my favourite Manta, you'd never lose this one in a car park either3 points
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3 points
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3 points
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Yesterday, I did a final run of the wiring harness before starting to solder on pigtails and install new plug ends that I have. So, the wiring harness, as a recap, is a mixture of new wire soldered to old pins. Plug and pig tails soldered into harness. And, new plug ends attached to new wire. After a few hours I it came to this. In the above picture is the harness ready for install. I have three engine bay runs now. Top one is the fuel injector run. Middle is the power supply and Fuel pump relay. Bottom one is sensor run. Coiled in bottom right is wires not used and interior ran wires. I will be working on the fuse/relay box a bit today.3 points
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A update for this weekend's adventures in F/I. Friday after work I stopped in at the local junkyard and picked up a few more parts I needed. I really only needed a couple of plug connectors to solder into the harness, but wound up with a couple of other items. As per usual when I go to the salvage yard. I destroyed a couple of plugs trying to disassemble them to solder wires to the pins. I gave up on that and decided to just solder the plug wires into the harness. Not as clean, but not as much as a headache to do. The throttle body that I had found, to try and make this project work, was off of a 1994 Ford Escort 1.9. When I was assembling the wiring harness I had thought that it would have been nice to have the plug for the Idle Air Control valve (IAC) come in from the same side that the Throttle Position Sensor plug did. It would look cleaner and would save from kinking the wire to make the bend into the plug from the opposite side. I happened to look under the hood of a 1993 Ford Escort and found this. The one on the left is off of the 1993 Escort. The one on the right is off of a 1994 Escort. Not sure why they would have changed them for 1994 up, but they did. Makes the wiring longer for those years, but works for my project.3 points
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There is an adjustable panhard from a Holden that fits. Think I got it from Whiteline. Will see if I can get to the pack or find the purchase email.3 points
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Stripped it off and cleaned it and put back with sealant for now not split but warped drove 97 miles to NEC no issues but haven’t stopped it and let it cool and tried again - will leave that for another day does seem to have a little less go - I think it may be too rich now as you say i know have original jet sizes so maybe I can find some at the show this weekend3 points
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definately a thumbs up to enjoying it . some people who dont understand us think were mad but we know whats what ! excellent work and skills you have there . well done youre a credit to the club . i pretty much do something on my fleet every single day and even with the big jobs it keeps the enthusiasm and exitement going . its amazing just how much you can get done by spending an hour in the garage every night ! with the colder damper days coming i am currently painting parts of my car in the kitchen on a large sheet . (replaced bottom mounting areas of front wings ) all part of the fun !3 points
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Sorry for rubbish pics I didnt check to see if you could see clearly just assumed.. so basically. I measured from the inner Cill to a flat bracket clamped to the inside of the chassis rails to make sure the body is sitting square on the chassis. ..now all spot on at 290mm. At each corner measured very close to the outriggers. Once I haD it all. Squared up a few Tec screws to hold in position don't want to be putting any weld down just yet measure measure come away and measure again tomorrow then hit it with the molten metal gun..not so much work wouldn't even say it was progress but it's probably the most important thing to get done at this stage ..3 points
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That’s all the outriggers done ,,,,,now to slide some 80x40 box into the cill cavity and weld onto the outriggers So the shell is solid mounted then the fun bit the tunnel ect chassis rails I’ve done purposely over length at rear in case I fit an irs and can fabricate off these far better to cut off excess than not have enough3 points
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how young people can type as fast as they do and not look at their screens is beyond me ! with big fingers and tiny keys mine always ends up as above !3 points
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Have a look at Volvo headlamp wipers, I’m sure someone on here says they fit ok3 points
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https://www.edelschmiede.com/shop/2er-Dichtungsset-Scheinwerfer-an-Karosserie-Opel-Manta-B3 points
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3 points
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3 points
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i would second that. new rubber is crap nowadays . if you get a seal kit from back in the day chances are it will be better than MOST stuff nowadays but check carefully anyway . and as mentioned easy to do yourself rather than pay a fortune for someone else to do it !! j would anyway !!3 points
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It is indeed a very tight interference fit. I warmed up the area of the head up with a blowtorch and put the tube into the freezer. One expanded and one contracted . I was able to place it over the hole and using a g clamp press it into position. I've also seen on forums people use a piece of 15mm copper pipe3 points
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3 points